Changing Spots, a Leopard 40 catamaran
Explore the world by sail
This is the page which will document the journey. The bottom of the page is the most recent activity.
For those who might be interested, I am in the process of getting rid of "stuff" so I can sell the house. A few small boat projects can be
done, such as looking into getting the boat registered in Canada, rather than the US Coast Guard (I am still a Canadian citizen).
I am also looking at boat accessories such as a dinghy, outboard, SSB radio, BBQ, anchors and chain, and charts.
I am waiting to hear about the diesel electric hybrid system. This will impact choices regarding engines, generator, watermaker, solar
panels.
By the end of June (2007) the second 10 % will be paid, and the options list finalized. I also have a list of questions for Peter, at The
Moorings. Then construction will begin. A trip to Cape Town, South Africa to visit the factory this Fall?
6/9/07- I heard that Robertson & Caine is building a new factory. They will not be able to do the development and testing necessary for a
new diesel electric hybrid system in time for my scheduled launch date. Also, my house is one of three being considered for "Sell this
House" for filming in July.
7/1/07 - The house won't be on Sell this House, but I finally feel I am making progress, in organizing and packing. I will try to meet with the
realtors soon to discuss want to do next to make the house presentable.
The boat broker should have received the 2nd 10% payment and final options list, so construction can begin. Although it is not very likely,
there is still a possibility the boat could be diesel electric hybrid. I still have some concerns which would need to be addressed, but the
technology is very exciting, and cutting edge.
7/10/07
I guess the hybrid system is a no-go, since I have not heard back. The gennaker design was done, and I will probably get folding props.
The process of registering the boat in Canada is started and the name, Changing Spots, is reserved.
A lot has been done towards getting the house ready to sell, but I have hit a "speed" bump.
9/1/07
The house went on the market yesterday, and there will be an open house today and tomorrow. With this real estate market - who
knows? Apparently the Carmichael area hasn't suffered as much as some of the outlying areas. Fortunately, I didn't have any
expectations, and based my needs on the real estate expert opinion.
Another glitch has surfaced. Morgan (my African Grey parrot) may not be able to make the journey. I have long known that there are
countries which require pets be put into quarantine for extended periods of time. My daughter, Kirsten, offered to look after Morgan for
months at a time while I visited those parts of the world; which I thought was a perfect solution. The glitch is that if I brought Morgan back
to the US, she would need to be put into quarantine for months, although she was born (hatched) and raised in the USA. How do you travel
the world by sailboat without your parrot? Is there no sense of tradition?
I assume that construction has started on Changing Spots. Peter, from the Moorings, is going to visit the factory in South Africa this
month and will take photos. The baby pictures will be posted right after I get them. The folding propellers were ordered, so that should
increase the sailing speed a bit, and give one less thing to snag stuff in the water.
Soon it will be time to start the journey across country by RV, towing the trailer full of possessions. I have a large library of book tapes to
help this land journey. Other projects include getting a Ham license - in Canada, since I learned that the license needs to be from the
country in which the boat is registered. I also want to take a course on weather, but don't know how extensive it will be, or which one.
10/12/07
Just got back from a great visit to Canada for Cdn thanksgiving and a family visit. Made it to the Vancouver area and Saskatchewan. My
1987 Toyota Celica survived the trip too, without any complaints. Also took the amateur radio exam, and managed to pass with a grade
which will allow use of an SSB radio. Call sign will be VA7CUB, although it will change to something different when I get the boat and
radio, since it will be travelling in international waters.
The US real estate market, at least here in Sacramento is pathetic. If the house doesn't sell soon without drastically decreasing the price
again, it may be a rental for a year or two. It may take that long for all the foreclosed houses to be bought before the market turns around.
Soon it may be a matter of trying to arrange the financial part. Interesting that I can probably move on faster if the house is rented rather
than sold.
10/31/07
No, there aren't any Halloween horror stories, but the house will be listed as a rental. That said, it is still for sale for a few weeks, if
anybody wants to buy a nice house in the Sacramento area for a great price. I am hoping to hit the road to Texas by next Monday or Tues,
by RV, towing the trailer. It should be a slow trip.
I'm still trying to sell stuff on Craig's list.
Morgan will be staying with a friend - quite disappointing that Morgan can't go.
On the good news front, Changing Spots is hull #126/ RAC40096, and will be handed to the delivery crew 12/10 to start her journey across
the Atlantic and equator from South Africa to Ft. Lauderdale. It isn't fair that she starts before I do!
For those who share the dream, keep hope. In spite of all the obstacles, this journey is still on course. That is, there are many lines of
possibilities, with many detours, converging on a point in time and place (Ft Lauderdale, Feb 2008), after which they will diverge with many
options for exploring the world.
For those who might be interested, I am in the process of getting rid of "stuff" so I can sell the house. A few small boat projects can be
done, such as looking into getting the boat registered in Canada, rather than the US Coast Guard (I am still a Canadian citizen).
I am also looking at boat accessories such as a dinghy, outboard, SSB radio, BBQ, anchors and chain, and charts.
I am waiting to hear about the diesel electric hybrid system. This will impact choices regarding engines, generator, watermaker, solar
panels.
By the end of June (2007) the second 10 % will be paid, and the options list finalized. I also have a list of questions for Peter, at The
Moorings. Then construction will begin. A trip to Cape Town, South Africa to visit the factory this Fall?
6/9/07- I heard that Robertson & Caine is building a new factory. They will not be able to do the development and testing necessary for a
new diesel electric hybrid system in time for my scheduled launch date. Also, my house is one of three being considered for "Sell this
House" for filming in July.
7/1/07 - The house won't be on Sell this House, but I finally feel I am making progress, in organizing and packing. I will try to meet with the
realtors soon to discuss want to do next to make the house presentable.
The boat broker should have received the 2nd 10% payment and final options list, so construction can begin. Although it is not very likely,
there is still a possibility the boat could be diesel electric hybrid. I still have some concerns which would need to be addressed, but the
technology is very exciting, and cutting edge.
7/10/07
I guess the hybrid system is a no-go, since I have not heard back. The gennaker design was done, and I will probably get folding props.
The process of registering the boat in Canada is started and the name, Changing Spots, is reserved.
A lot has been done towards getting the house ready to sell, but I have hit a "speed" bump.
9/1/07
The house went on the market yesterday, and there will be an open house today and tomorrow. With this real estate market - who
knows? Apparently the Carmichael area hasn't suffered as much as some of the outlying areas. Fortunately, I didn't have any
expectations, and based my needs on the real estate expert opinion.
Another glitch has surfaced. Morgan (my African Grey parrot) may not be able to make the journey. I have long known that there are
countries which require pets be put into quarantine for extended periods of time. My daughter, Kirsten, offered to look after Morgan for
months at a time while I visited those parts of the world; which I thought was a perfect solution. The glitch is that if I brought Morgan back
to the US, she would need to be put into quarantine for months, although she was born (hatched) and raised in the USA. How do you travel
the world by sailboat without your parrot? Is there no sense of tradition?
I assume that construction has started on Changing Spots. Peter, from the Moorings, is going to visit the factory in South Africa this
month and will take photos. The baby pictures will be posted right after I get them. The folding propellers were ordered, so that should
increase the sailing speed a bit, and give one less thing to snag stuff in the water.
Soon it will be time to start the journey across country by RV, towing the trailer full of possessions. I have a large library of book tapes to
help this land journey. Other projects include getting a Ham license - in Canada, since I learned that the license needs to be from the
country in which the boat is registered. I also want to take a course on weather, but don't know how extensive it will be, or which one.
10/12/07
Just got back from a great visit to Canada for Cdn thanksgiving and a family visit. Made it to the Vancouver area and Saskatchewan. My
1987 Toyota Celica survived the trip too, without any complaints. Also took the amateur radio exam, and managed to pass with a grade
which will allow use of an SSB radio. Call sign will be VA7CUB, although it will change to something different when I get the boat and
radio, since it will be travelling in international waters.
The US real estate market, at least here in Sacramento is pathetic. If the house doesn't sell soon without drastically decreasing the price
again, it may be a rental for a year or two. It may take that long for all the foreclosed houses to be bought before the market turns around.
Soon it may be a matter of trying to arrange the financial part. Interesting that I can probably move on faster if the house is rented rather
than sold.
10/31/07
No, there aren't any Halloween horror stories, but the house will be listed as a rental. That said, it is still for sale for a few weeks, if
anybody wants to buy a nice house in the Sacramento area for a great price. I am hoping to hit the road to Texas by next Monday or Tues,
by RV, towing the trailer. It should be a slow trip.
I'm still trying to sell stuff on Craig's list.
Morgan will be staying with a friend - quite disappointing that Morgan can't go.
On the good news front, Changing Spots is hull #126/ RAC40096, and will be handed to the delivery crew 12/10 to start her journey across
the Atlantic and equator from South Africa to Ft. Lauderdale. It isn't fair that she starts before I do!
For those who share the dream, keep hope. In spite of all the obstacles, this journey is still on course. That is, there are many lines of
possibilities, with many detours, converging on a point in time and place (Ft Lauderdale, Feb 2008), after which they will diverge with many
options for exploring the world.
 | |  | |  | |  | |  | |  |
Take time to enjoy the journey. Life shouldn't be a race to the finish line. RW
January 24, 2008 NEW "HOME", A GUATEMALA VISIT, AND A WIPE OUT
Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
A lot has happened since the last update, and a lot has gotten done. Not all was good. Those who read this in hope that you will cruise
some day: – take hope – in spite of the hurdles thrown at you, you can do it if you keep your focus.
The houses are not sold, but rented, so there will still be some income now that the retirement fund was slashed to pay for the houses
and the boat. Financially, other than taxes (any big surprises?), things are finally in order.
The trip to Texas was horrible, but uneventful. Towing a trailer by a squirrelly at best, short wheelbase RV, was white knuckled the
whole 1800 miles, even at only 50 to 60 mph. Texas however is fine! I guess I am now a Texan, but will try to remember that yawl is a
kind of sailboat, not an abbreviation of "you all".
After a wonderful break, and unloading many boxes at my daughter’s in Texas, the trailer was ready to haul the boat stuff (way too
much!!) to store in Ft. Lauderdale. However, an unexpected interlude occurred.
A friend from whom I hadn’t heard for a few months, invited me to join her on her catamaran in Rio Dulce, Guatemala. By the next
evening I had a plane reservation to Sacramento, and from LA to Guatemala City! After a few days living on a houseboat on the
Sacramento River Delta, buying medical supplies, and packing up my Explorer, we set off to LA for the redeye to Guatemala. Then
after an almost 5 hr bus ride we arrived at Rio Dulce, and travelled by skiff to Mario’s marina.
It was great, and I must go back again to spend more time, but I only stayed a week. I learned three lessons:
1. I can’t drink that much every day, nor do I want to try.
2. You spend far more time on your boat as a home, than you do as a method of transportation. The pendulum has swung from
speed to livability. Watch that waterline now!
3. The biggest challenge to exploring the world by sail isn’t the storms, or the pirates, or the money. It is finding a place and people
so nice you don’t want to leave.
After picking up the Explorer in LA at 1:30 AM, my goal was to get out of the region that night so I wouldn’t have to face their notorious
rush hour(s) traffic in the morning. About 2:30 AM I was so tried I told myself that I was pulling over at the next off ramp of any sort.
Almost the next thing was the realization that it was dark and quiet, I was off the side road with a large bump on the side of my head.
The car, and most of what was in it was totaled. I must have rolled at least twice, and stuff was strewn all over. (My thanks to the
Moreno Valley police officers, and the tow truck driver, who were very supportive and helpful.) Yes, I had been unconscious, and no I
didn’t get a medical check. (It was only a head injury, so it couldn’t hurt me.) I was going to my daughter's concert come Hell or high
water. At least I didn't find any high water. I made it, and it was great.
So now I don’t have the car I was planning to use in Texas, and get me back to Florida during boat commissioning (and then sell it).
The trailer was packed and ready to go to Ft. Lauderdale to put stuff into storage. More was loaded into it, knowing that there wouldn’t
be a last car load, but only 2 suitcases for the last trip. DONE! Not as white knuckled as the first part, and there was a pleasant,
unhurried time in tropical weather, and of course a visit to The Moorings, and the Leopards.
Now to get ready to travel (by plane) to Sacramento for doctor visits, do taxes, and visit friends. A sad realization is that I shouldn’t see
Morgan (African Grey parrot), since she is adapting to her new home, and I don’t want to confuse her by visiting.
Changing Spots hasn’t made it to Florida yet, but is due early Feb.
1/29/2008
I just learned that with the delay in getting registration processed for Canada because of the "tonnage measurement" difficulties, it may
be a serious hassle to go to a foreign country such as the Bahamas for the test cruise. The lemonade from this lemon will be a trip to
the Florida Keys instead. If I could only find an official measurer who would be in Florida for the boat show!
2/4/2008
Changing Spots has arrived in Fort Lauderdale! I don't know how much in advance of the boat show she will head to Miami to
get parked and set up, but maybe I can do the voyage too.
2/13/2008
I too have finally arrived in Fort Lauderdale - except that Changing Spots was already taken to Miami to prepare for the boat show. They
promised that the impressive thunderstorms that raged through this place recently are over, so it is time to enjoy the boat show
tomorrow.
2/15/2008
It is all falling into place - at last. I have spent two days at the boat show, and met several new and prior owners. I am also finding a can-
do attitude from the Moorings/leopard people now that I am here. I shortened my " buy now" list drastically since i won't know if i have
any money left until get an estimate of the taxes I owe. And I was so much looking forward to singlehandedly jump starting the nation's
economy! However, I have heard from many people that it is good to wait until you have been out there for a while before getting all the
accessories. Besides, there is enough to learn without all the other things at once. Still trying to make lemonade.
I have had requests to post photos from my own boat, so these are fresh. Sorry the decor isn't mine. The link is to Picasa, on Google.
Changing Spots - at the 2008 Miami boat show
2/21/08
Changing Spots is back in Ft Lauderdale from the Miami boat show. The sail up was in boisterous conditions, with a strong North wind
against the gulf stream. This causes lots of short steep waves. A nice challenge, but not the easy sailing you look for. One of the
concerns about catamarans is the slapping of waves against the bridgedeck. There wasn't any!, although we didn't get out to the
middle of the gulf stream. She passed the test.
Am now trying to coordinate the hauling of the boat to get a survey done (looking for problems), and put in some through-hull fittings for
the generator and watermaker (to be purchased later). Then it is time to load stuff aboard, new photos added to Picasa today.
2/24/08 MALARIA!!!
Can't make lemonade out of this one! Sorry.
Another detour in the branching path of time and space towards when I get to move aboard.
I was wondering why I was so tired by the end of the boat show every day, and felt hot or the occasional mild chill. It was getting worse
daily. After ruling out the typical stuff like not yet adapted to the heat, and not drinking enough fluids, and not enough sleep, I became
worried that it could be the stress of all decisions to be made. A brisk walk just exhausted me and that night, I was surprised with
spiking fever, followed by a drenching sweat, then uncontrollable chills. Again the next night.
Anyway, I spent a great deal of time learning about malaria, and learned that not all types present with sky high fever, and the "benign"
forms can show up almost a year after the mosquito bite. I was in Guatemala over two months ago, well beyond the two weeks to
month and a half that my early quick search showed that it took for malaria to show up.
Started the meds yesterday, and no sweats or chills today, but all I want to do is sleep, and I don't tolerate heat (and no appetite).
I did get the haul out and survey scheduled, and the measurement for Canada.
2/26/2008
Not much to report, but I didn't want to leave anybody out there in the lurch while I just got malaria. Much better after two days of
malaria treatment and still better today. If I kept getting better at the same rate as the first two days I estimated that in four more days I
would have been leaping buildings in a single bound. Oh well!
Canadian tonnage measurement was done yesterday, but not finalized. The generator is sitting on the boat. Today the dinghy is to be
delivered, and I (we?) will set it up, and the boat will be hauled for inspection (a minor, verbal one) and through hull fittings to be done.
I would like to thank the many helpful, supportive people at the Moorings yacht brokerage in Ft. Lauderdale for their patience and
understanding of my ordeal with malaria.
2/27/08
Changing Spots didn't seem at all embarrassed about showing her bare bottom during the haulout and inspection. And I am doing so
much better (thanks for asking). Now to get caught up on all that didn't get done earlier. The outboard and dinghy are hung on the
davits, but still need a bit of tweaking. It was great service from Suncoast inflatables. Some of the sales people are getting to know me
at West Marine. I'm only two or three miles from their huge store.
3/01/08
Tonight is my second night aboard. It is chaos as I try to load the boxes of stuff, and discard, prepare to ship back to TX, and /or
organize everything. I'll try for 2-4 boxes a day. Now that my energy is back, in retrospect, the malaria probably started at least a few
weeks ago. I just thought I was turning into a wimp! The lemonade? It was only malaria, which was cured!!!!
3/10/08
It happened! I have taken delivery (and paid for the boat). A delivery skipper and I sailed (motorsailed actually) to Bimini (in the
Bahamas). The wind was supposed to change direction and become more favorable, but never did. We waited all day, then did a night
sail, with 2 hr watches, sailing quite close hauled and trying to head south as much as possible. The gulf stream current carries you
quite a bit north. It was wet and wild, but the boat (and I) did fine. When we got north of Bimini, we motored straight south, into the wind
and waves. After a brief stay, we headed back to Fort Lauderdale. Of course, the wind had now shifted, and was coming from the
wrong direction again. The waves were large enough I would have expected some pounding on the bridgedeck. There wasn't any! The
hulls did some pounding, but that is to be expected. Check out the photos!
The paperwork has been sent for registering the boat in Canada. Now it is back to unloading boxes, and getting the generator, and a
few other things installed.
3/12/08
A part just showed up for the generator, so the installation has started again. Once installed, I will have space to stow all my stuff
(except what gets shipped back to TX) . So the boat is still chaos, with boxes piled all over. I'll need to extend the storage locker until
the end of the month.
Got a new rental car. What a difference the can-do attitude of this company compared to the screw-you attitude of the rental place at
the airport. They picked me up at the marina, and I still save over $40 a week.
Went over the list of new boat warranty issues, so they can start work. There was nothing major (although I certainly didn't appreciate
the leaky hatch over my bunk). As long as the boat is having warranty work done, the docking is on them (I think, as it seems fair). I
don't think I can do much voyaging until I get the Canadian registration completed, since I need it to get a US cruising permit.
3/13/08
I had an inspiration last night! Changing Spots gets launched again tomorrow morning (Friday) after an overnight haulout. I have invited
the people involved, and neighbors to a "5 at 5" party. At 5 PM on Friday, we will get together for 5 minutes for a christening (and a free
beer!). A coin (a St Christopher medal) is to be placed at the base of the mast to give strength, vitality, and success. Each bow will be
anointed with a splash of champagne to ask for Neptune's blessings, and to give Changing Spots her personality, character, and a
spirit. The response was great (even before I offered a free beer). Photos to follow!
There is a story about the champagne. At the party hosted by Lats & Atts at the Miami boat show, they were serving beer, wine and
champagne. I commented that they reminded me that I had neglected getting champagne for christening my new boat, and described
her. They kindly handed me a bottle of Chardonnay champagne, which I carried around for the rest of the evening. Thanks, Lats & Atts!
Nautical history is so full of wonderful traditions, I hate to waste an opportunity to exploit them.
3/15/08
I think Neptune was honored. All afternoon it looked and felt like it was about to rain any minute. The rain held off for an hour after all
was said and done (and there was even some beer left!). It was fun. Check out the photos!
3/31/08
Still at the marina in Ft. Lauderdale, but things are happening.
Order out of chaos! Everything is packed away, and 178 lbs of stuff was sent back to Texas. Only a few small projects are left to be
done on the boat before departure, and hopefully they can be done prior to the departure date of Thursday or ? (in two or three days).
There are lots of things to learn and experiment with, but the real fun is about to start! First stop, Biscayne Bay near Miami, then explore
the Keys for a while before heading north for the summer.
4/4/08
Still at the marina in Ft Lauderdale, but taking some play time to explore with the dinghy. Did some modifications to the dinghy davit
tackle system. Made a rail mount for the dinghy outboard.
Maybe the last commissioning projects will be completed by Monday. I am not sure who is responsible for the dock fees, since we are
only still here because the commissioning isn't completed.
Also got a fiberglass propane tank, which is full size. The two aluminum tanks which come with the boat are half size, 10#. More
photos.
4/15/08
The people at the Moorings have been great. The commissioning is finally done.
It has started!! We left Ft Lauderdale on Wednesday, 4/9 and spent two nights at anchor in Key Biscayne.
The plan was to head to Key Largo before travelling north for the summer. However, the weather forecast was for a week of cold north
wind in a few days, to last for about a week. We took the opportunity to head north while we had the favorable weather window for north
travel. 300 miles in two days of sailing from Key Biscayne to St. Augustine.
We had a small visitor for a couple of hrs while about 18 miles offshore.
It was great until Sat, just before sunrise. The wind was on the nose, at 20 to 30 knots, with 30 miles to go. Time to get the sails down
and get the engines fired up and slog it out.
Now to play tourist in St. Augustine (and try to get the radar working). They (the local authorized dealer)are supposed to be here
tomorrow AM to remove the radar dome from the mast. Now, how long will it take to get it fixed. The people at Raymarine have been
great, but the parts are not available locally.
Would like to explore the area with the dinghy, but the wind is cold and strong. There is a lot to see around here. It is nice to be at the
marina, with electricity, so we can have some heat.
Don't know where to head next, or when. It depends on the weather patterns.
More photos to see.
4/19/2008
At anchor in Georgia after an overnight sail from St. Augustine. We left the marina in time to catch the 11 AM bridge opening, with a
strong current, and an escort of dolphins. The wind in the Atlantic was very light - but perfect for our planned overnight sail. No, we
couldn't leave well enough alone, but had to have more fun. We were only doing 2 to 3 knots and it was warm and the seas were gentle.
In spite of not even getting a description or diagram of how to rig the gennaker, we set it up, and it worked. (Some day it might be nice to
know how it is supposed to be done.) Our speed went from 2.5 kts to 5-6 kts. As the wind picked up we were sitting on 9 kts with an
easy gentle motion. Unfortunately, at this speed, we would arrive at dark - not good for a new location. Besides taking down the
gennaker, we now also needed to slow the boat, but the wind picked up, making it very difficult to slow the boat to 2 kts.
4/20
We came up with a simple system to hoist the outboard off the rail mount, onto the dinghy, and also became aware of a minor problem
with the genoa roller furling drum. The angle of the furling line where it attaches to the drum is such that the line rolls up on the bottom
of the drum. It can then override, or slip off. Of course this could be a serious problem when you need to douse sail in a hurry. A photo
showing solutions will be added to the above link when I get high speed internet. Heading off to explore Cumberland Island National
Seashore today. May head to Savannah tomorrow or the next day. We will need to stay somewhere long enough for mail and radar to
catch up with us.
4/24/08
The weather forecast was for winds generally from the north, so we decided to explore the ICW (intracoastal waterway). We are now
in Fort McAllister, GA, at anchor. We did however take advantage of the restaurant at the marina for dinner tonight. With the help of my
EnGenius USB antennae adapter, I am able to connect to the internet. Had a nice walk to the fort which was the site of civil war battles.
It turns out that this temporary earthen fort could stand up to the modern rifled cannon, whereas the invincible high tech brick Fort
Pulaski didn't last two days.
Last night we anchored off Sapelo Island and walked the beach. We have seen dolphins every day since leaving Ft. Lauderdale, and
some have been quite close. Yesterday, they were in a small pod, fairly close, and I started whistling. They stayed in the area a little
longer than usual, and blew air and dove more than we had seen.
It was probably a coincidence, but they did it again later too.
The night before last we anchored off a state park on St. Catherines Island in hopes of touring an old lighthouse. Although they do
not officially allow tours, except from their own facilities, a local tour guide gave us a ride to the lighthouse, and let us walk to the top for
a few minutes. Sitting in the cockpit before sunset i noticed something swimming across the river. I thought it might be an otter, but
thought the head had ridges!? A quick check with the binoculars showed it to be an alligator! It then swam along the shore an
disappeared. It was definitely more than 4 ft, but less than 6 ft. By the time I thought to get the camera, it was too far away, but I did get
some video (not close enough to post).
The night before that we anchored off St. Simon Island. These are areas which used to belong to the rich and famous.
4/26/2008
Last night we anchored just off the Moon river (yes, THE Moon river) and explored by dinghy. We tried to anchor in Moon river, but
discovered the soft mud bottom with the keels, and changed our minds after the second attempt.
A short trip today, to the Isle of Hope. We are anchored just south of a marina, where we plan to go ashore and explore. The anchorage
is a little tight, so we will keep an eye out. Several dolphins just swam by, within 15 ft of the boat. The only fly in the ointment is the
swarm of tiny bugs which find us when the breeze dies down. I'm going to have to make the cockpit sun & bug enclosure soon.
Even loaded down like this boat is, she still sails quite well, easily, and fast.
Motoring up the ICW is simple, and with both 29 hp Yanmars at only 2200 rpm, we do about 6+ kts (hard to say with the current and
wind), barely sipping fuel.
5/8/08
Have been in Savannah for a while, and staying at the Isle of Hope Marina for a week, letting mail and packages get caught up. I fitted
a screen for the companionway, and ordered the screen I want to use for the cockpit enclosure, but the job is too big and complicated
for my abilities (or lack thereof). So I ordered more stuff as an excuse to procrastinate. Maybe after I get the first part done, the rest
will not seem so daunting.
Savannah is a nice little city with lots of fun tourist stuff to do.
The photos are Fort Pulaski, which proved that modern rifled
cannon made forts obsolete. A whole corner was blasted
away from over a mile away. When the Union troops took over,
they patched it up. Learned a lot about the Civil War from an interesting Southern perspective.
The trip up the ICW took about 33 gallons of diesel, doing about 6-7knots most of the way (slower when against the tide.)
I have gotten fairly experienced with anchoring, but have only come into a dock twice. At the marina, there is a large, simple dock at the
front, where I expected to tie up, and arrange for help putting the boat where she was to go. (It is much nicer to explain your ignorance
by asking for help, than by wrecking stuff!) But NOOOOO! They said go past the fuel dock, turn around and come between the rows of
boats to the end. So here I am, the second or third time docking this boat, and I have to run the gauntlet, with tide and a little wind. With
the marina guys shouting distances between the adjacent boats it all worked out fine. Yesterday, I had to move the boat to another
dock - which meant backing out!! With the great help from these guys, I managed fine and a crisis was averted. The marina allows the
2 hr use of a borrower car for local trips, which is a great convenience. (and recommended). It even makes picking up a rental car
much easier. I plan to visit again on the way South in the Fall.
The wind is picking up and it is getting quite bouncy. The outer dock protects the boats inside it, but the boats on the outside start
rockin'. The movement feels quite nice, but now I feel like I need a nap. Pity the small monohulls out here.
At the other end of this dock is a large (125 ft) Hinkley yacht. The owner just put $6 million into her to spruce her up. There will leave
soon for an 18 month voyage. I would hate to buy the 7000 gallons of fuel to fill the tanks. The generator alone takes 6 gallons per hour.
Next week, maybe Wednesday AM, it will be further northward travels. South Carolina is next.
5/13
So far it is a go to head out tomorrow. The plan is to head into the ocean up to Georgetown. From there we can access the ICW again,
and visit Prince Creek, which I hear is great. In one to two weeks, the Chesapeake, and Annapolis. It may be a while before I have high
speed internet.
Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
A lot has happened since the last update, and a lot has gotten done. Not all was good. Those who read this in hope that you will cruise
some day: – take hope – in spite of the hurdles thrown at you, you can do it if you keep your focus.
The houses are not sold, but rented, so there will still be some income now that the retirement fund was slashed to pay for the houses
and the boat. Financially, other than taxes (any big surprises?), things are finally in order.
The trip to Texas was horrible, but uneventful. Towing a trailer by a squirrelly at best, short wheelbase RV, was white knuckled the
whole 1800 miles, even at only 50 to 60 mph. Texas however is fine! I guess I am now a Texan, but will try to remember that yawl is a
kind of sailboat, not an abbreviation of "you all".
After a wonderful break, and unloading many boxes at my daughter’s in Texas, the trailer was ready to haul the boat stuff (way too
much!!) to store in Ft. Lauderdale. However, an unexpected interlude occurred.
A friend from whom I hadn’t heard for a few months, invited me to join her on her catamaran in Rio Dulce, Guatemala. By the next
evening I had a plane reservation to Sacramento, and from LA to Guatemala City! After a few days living on a houseboat on the
Sacramento River Delta, buying medical supplies, and packing up my Explorer, we set off to LA for the redeye to Guatemala. Then
after an almost 5 hr bus ride we arrived at Rio Dulce, and travelled by skiff to Mario’s marina.
It was great, and I must go back again to spend more time, but I only stayed a week. I learned three lessons:
1. I can’t drink that much every day, nor do I want to try.
2. You spend far more time on your boat as a home, than you do as a method of transportation. The pendulum has swung from
speed to livability. Watch that waterline now!
3. The biggest challenge to exploring the world by sail isn’t the storms, or the pirates, or the money. It is finding a place and people
so nice you don’t want to leave.
After picking up the Explorer in LA at 1:30 AM, my goal was to get out of the region that night so I wouldn’t have to face their notorious
rush hour(s) traffic in the morning. About 2:30 AM I was so tried I told myself that I was pulling over at the next off ramp of any sort.
Almost the next thing was the realization that it was dark and quiet, I was off the side road with a large bump on the side of my head.
The car, and most of what was in it was totaled. I must have rolled at least twice, and stuff was strewn all over. (My thanks to the
Moreno Valley police officers, and the tow truck driver, who were very supportive and helpful.) Yes, I had been unconscious, and no I
didn’t get a medical check. (It was only a head injury, so it couldn’t hurt me.) I was going to my daughter's concert come Hell or high
water. At least I didn't find any high water. I made it, and it was great.
So now I don’t have the car I was planning to use in Texas, and get me back to Florida during boat commissioning (and then sell it).
The trailer was packed and ready to go to Ft. Lauderdale to put stuff into storage. More was loaded into it, knowing that there wouldn’t
be a last car load, but only 2 suitcases for the last trip. DONE! Not as white knuckled as the first part, and there was a pleasant,
unhurried time in tropical weather, and of course a visit to The Moorings, and the Leopards.
Now to get ready to travel (by plane) to Sacramento for doctor visits, do taxes, and visit friends. A sad realization is that I shouldn’t see
Morgan (African Grey parrot), since she is adapting to her new home, and I don’t want to confuse her by visiting.
Changing Spots hasn’t made it to Florida yet, but is due early Feb.
1/29/2008
I just learned that with the delay in getting registration processed for Canada because of the "tonnage measurement" difficulties, it may
be a serious hassle to go to a foreign country such as the Bahamas for the test cruise. The lemonade from this lemon will be a trip to
the Florida Keys instead. If I could only find an official measurer who would be in Florida for the boat show!
2/4/2008
Changing Spots has arrived in Fort Lauderdale! I don't know how much in advance of the boat show she will head to Miami to
get parked and set up, but maybe I can do the voyage too.
2/13/2008
I too have finally arrived in Fort Lauderdale - except that Changing Spots was already taken to Miami to prepare for the boat show. They
promised that the impressive thunderstorms that raged through this place recently are over, so it is time to enjoy the boat show
tomorrow.
2/15/2008
It is all falling into place - at last. I have spent two days at the boat show, and met several new and prior owners. I am also finding a can-
do attitude from the Moorings/leopard people now that I am here. I shortened my " buy now" list drastically since i won't know if i have
any money left until get an estimate of the taxes I owe. And I was so much looking forward to singlehandedly jump starting the nation's
economy! However, I have heard from many people that it is good to wait until you have been out there for a while before getting all the
accessories. Besides, there is enough to learn without all the other things at once. Still trying to make lemonade.
I have had requests to post photos from my own boat, so these are fresh. Sorry the decor isn't mine. The link is to Picasa, on Google.
Changing Spots - at the 2008 Miami boat show
2/21/08
Changing Spots is back in Ft Lauderdale from the Miami boat show. The sail up was in boisterous conditions, with a strong North wind
against the gulf stream. This causes lots of short steep waves. A nice challenge, but not the easy sailing you look for. One of the
concerns about catamarans is the slapping of waves against the bridgedeck. There wasn't any!, although we didn't get out to the
middle of the gulf stream. She passed the test.
Am now trying to coordinate the hauling of the boat to get a survey done (looking for problems), and put in some through-hull fittings for
the generator and watermaker (to be purchased later). Then it is time to load stuff aboard, new photos added to Picasa today.
2/24/08 MALARIA!!!
Can't make lemonade out of this one! Sorry.
Another detour in the branching path of time and space towards when I get to move aboard.
I was wondering why I was so tired by the end of the boat show every day, and felt hot or the occasional mild chill. It was getting worse
daily. After ruling out the typical stuff like not yet adapted to the heat, and not drinking enough fluids, and not enough sleep, I became
worried that it could be the stress of all decisions to be made. A brisk walk just exhausted me and that night, I was surprised with
spiking fever, followed by a drenching sweat, then uncontrollable chills. Again the next night.
Anyway, I spent a great deal of time learning about malaria, and learned that not all types present with sky high fever, and the "benign"
forms can show up almost a year after the mosquito bite. I was in Guatemala over two months ago, well beyond the two weeks to
month and a half that my early quick search showed that it took for malaria to show up.
Started the meds yesterday, and no sweats or chills today, but all I want to do is sleep, and I don't tolerate heat (and no appetite).
I did get the haul out and survey scheduled, and the measurement for Canada.
2/26/2008
Not much to report, but I didn't want to leave anybody out there in the lurch while I just got malaria. Much better after two days of
malaria treatment and still better today. If I kept getting better at the same rate as the first two days I estimated that in four more days I
would have been leaping buildings in a single bound. Oh well!
Canadian tonnage measurement was done yesterday, but not finalized. The generator is sitting on the boat. Today the dinghy is to be
delivered, and I (we?) will set it up, and the boat will be hauled for inspection (a minor, verbal one) and through hull fittings to be done.
I would like to thank the many helpful, supportive people at the Moorings yacht brokerage in Ft. Lauderdale for their patience and
understanding of my ordeal with malaria.
2/27/08
Changing Spots didn't seem at all embarrassed about showing her bare bottom during the haulout and inspection. And I am doing so
much better (thanks for asking). Now to get caught up on all that didn't get done earlier. The outboard and dinghy are hung on the
davits, but still need a bit of tweaking. It was great service from Suncoast inflatables. Some of the sales people are getting to know me
at West Marine. I'm only two or three miles from their huge store.
3/01/08
Tonight is my second night aboard. It is chaos as I try to load the boxes of stuff, and discard, prepare to ship back to TX, and /or
organize everything. I'll try for 2-4 boxes a day. Now that my energy is back, in retrospect, the malaria probably started at least a few
weeks ago. I just thought I was turning into a wimp! The lemonade? It was only malaria, which was cured!!!!
3/10/08
It happened! I have taken delivery (and paid for the boat). A delivery skipper and I sailed (motorsailed actually) to Bimini (in the
Bahamas). The wind was supposed to change direction and become more favorable, but never did. We waited all day, then did a night
sail, with 2 hr watches, sailing quite close hauled and trying to head south as much as possible. The gulf stream current carries you
quite a bit north. It was wet and wild, but the boat (and I) did fine. When we got north of Bimini, we motored straight south, into the wind
and waves. After a brief stay, we headed back to Fort Lauderdale. Of course, the wind had now shifted, and was coming from the
wrong direction again. The waves were large enough I would have expected some pounding on the bridgedeck. There wasn't any! The
hulls did some pounding, but that is to be expected. Check out the photos!
The paperwork has been sent for registering the boat in Canada. Now it is back to unloading boxes, and getting the generator, and a
few other things installed.
3/12/08
A part just showed up for the generator, so the installation has started again. Once installed, I will have space to stow all my stuff
(except what gets shipped back to TX) . So the boat is still chaos, with boxes piled all over. I'll need to extend the storage locker until
the end of the month.
Got a new rental car. What a difference the can-do attitude of this company compared to the screw-you attitude of the rental place at
the airport. They picked me up at the marina, and I still save over $40 a week.
Went over the list of new boat warranty issues, so they can start work. There was nothing major (although I certainly didn't appreciate
the leaky hatch over my bunk). As long as the boat is having warranty work done, the docking is on them (I think, as it seems fair). I
don't think I can do much voyaging until I get the Canadian registration completed, since I need it to get a US cruising permit.
3/13/08
I had an inspiration last night! Changing Spots gets launched again tomorrow morning (Friday) after an overnight haulout. I have invited
the people involved, and neighbors to a "5 at 5" party. At 5 PM on Friday, we will get together for 5 minutes for a christening (and a free
beer!). A coin (a St Christopher medal) is to be placed at the base of the mast to give strength, vitality, and success. Each bow will be
anointed with a splash of champagne to ask for Neptune's blessings, and to give Changing Spots her personality, character, and a
spirit. The response was great (even before I offered a free beer). Photos to follow!
There is a story about the champagne. At the party hosted by Lats & Atts at the Miami boat show, they were serving beer, wine and
champagne. I commented that they reminded me that I had neglected getting champagne for christening my new boat, and described
her. They kindly handed me a bottle of Chardonnay champagne, which I carried around for the rest of the evening. Thanks, Lats & Atts!
Nautical history is so full of wonderful traditions, I hate to waste an opportunity to exploit them.
3/15/08
I think Neptune was honored. All afternoon it looked and felt like it was about to rain any minute. The rain held off for an hour after all
was said and done (and there was even some beer left!). It was fun. Check out the photos!
3/31/08
Still at the marina in Ft. Lauderdale, but things are happening.
Order out of chaos! Everything is packed away, and 178 lbs of stuff was sent back to Texas. Only a few small projects are left to be
done on the boat before departure, and hopefully they can be done prior to the departure date of Thursday or ? (in two or three days).
There are lots of things to learn and experiment with, but the real fun is about to start! First stop, Biscayne Bay near Miami, then explore
the Keys for a while before heading north for the summer.
4/4/08
Still at the marina in Ft Lauderdale, but taking some play time to explore with the dinghy. Did some modifications to the dinghy davit
tackle system. Made a rail mount for the dinghy outboard.
Maybe the last commissioning projects will be completed by Monday. I am not sure who is responsible for the dock fees, since we are
only still here because the commissioning isn't completed.
Also got a fiberglass propane tank, which is full size. The two aluminum tanks which come with the boat are half size, 10#. More
photos.
4/15/08
The people at the Moorings have been great. The commissioning is finally done.
It has started!! We left Ft Lauderdale on Wednesday, 4/9 and spent two nights at anchor in Key Biscayne.
The plan was to head to Key Largo before travelling north for the summer. However, the weather forecast was for a week of cold north
wind in a few days, to last for about a week. We took the opportunity to head north while we had the favorable weather window for north
travel. 300 miles in two days of sailing from Key Biscayne to St. Augustine.
We had a small visitor for a couple of hrs while about 18 miles offshore.
It was great until Sat, just before sunrise. The wind was on the nose, at 20 to 30 knots, with 30 miles to go. Time to get the sails down
and get the engines fired up and slog it out.
Now to play tourist in St. Augustine (and try to get the radar working). They (the local authorized dealer)are supposed to be here
tomorrow AM to remove the radar dome from the mast. Now, how long will it take to get it fixed. The people at Raymarine have been
great, but the parts are not available locally.
Would like to explore the area with the dinghy, but the wind is cold and strong. There is a lot to see around here. It is nice to be at the
marina, with electricity, so we can have some heat.
Don't know where to head next, or when. It depends on the weather patterns.
More photos to see.
4/19/2008
At anchor in Georgia after an overnight sail from St. Augustine. We left the marina in time to catch the 11 AM bridge opening, with a
strong current, and an escort of dolphins. The wind in the Atlantic was very light - but perfect for our planned overnight sail. No, we
couldn't leave well enough alone, but had to have more fun. We were only doing 2 to 3 knots and it was warm and the seas were gentle.
In spite of not even getting a description or diagram of how to rig the gennaker, we set it up, and it worked. (Some day it might be nice to
know how it is supposed to be done.) Our speed went from 2.5 kts to 5-6 kts. As the wind picked up we were sitting on 9 kts with an
easy gentle motion. Unfortunately, at this speed, we would arrive at dark - not good for a new location. Besides taking down the
gennaker, we now also needed to slow the boat, but the wind picked up, making it very difficult to slow the boat to 2 kts.
4/20
We came up with a simple system to hoist the outboard off the rail mount, onto the dinghy, and also became aware of a minor problem
with the genoa roller furling drum. The angle of the furling line where it attaches to the drum is such that the line rolls up on the bottom
of the drum. It can then override, or slip off. Of course this could be a serious problem when you need to douse sail in a hurry. A photo
showing solutions will be added to the above link when I get high speed internet. Heading off to explore Cumberland Island National
Seashore today. May head to Savannah tomorrow or the next day. We will need to stay somewhere long enough for mail and radar to
catch up with us.
4/24/08
The weather forecast was for winds generally from the north, so we decided to explore the ICW (intracoastal waterway). We are now
in Fort McAllister, GA, at anchor. We did however take advantage of the restaurant at the marina for dinner tonight. With the help of my
EnGenius USB antennae adapter, I am able to connect to the internet. Had a nice walk to the fort which was the site of civil war battles.
It turns out that this temporary earthen fort could stand up to the modern rifled cannon, whereas the invincible high tech brick Fort
Pulaski didn't last two days.
Last night we anchored off Sapelo Island and walked the beach. We have seen dolphins every day since leaving Ft. Lauderdale, and
some have been quite close. Yesterday, they were in a small pod, fairly close, and I started whistling. They stayed in the area a little
longer than usual, and blew air and dove more than we had seen.
It was probably a coincidence, but they did it again later too.
The night before last we anchored off a state park on St. Catherines Island in hopes of touring an old lighthouse. Although they do
not officially allow tours, except from their own facilities, a local tour guide gave us a ride to the lighthouse, and let us walk to the top for
a few minutes. Sitting in the cockpit before sunset i noticed something swimming across the river. I thought it might be an otter, but
thought the head had ridges!? A quick check with the binoculars showed it to be an alligator! It then swam along the shore an
disappeared. It was definitely more than 4 ft, but less than 6 ft. By the time I thought to get the camera, it was too far away, but I did get
some video (not close enough to post).
The night before that we anchored off St. Simon Island. These are areas which used to belong to the rich and famous.
4/26/2008
Last night we anchored just off the Moon river (yes, THE Moon river) and explored by dinghy. We tried to anchor in Moon river, but
discovered the soft mud bottom with the keels, and changed our minds after the second attempt.
A short trip today, to the Isle of Hope. We are anchored just south of a marina, where we plan to go ashore and explore. The anchorage
is a little tight, so we will keep an eye out. Several dolphins just swam by, within 15 ft of the boat. The only fly in the ointment is the
swarm of tiny bugs which find us when the breeze dies down. I'm going to have to make the cockpit sun & bug enclosure soon.
Even loaded down like this boat is, she still sails quite well, easily, and fast.
Motoring up the ICW is simple, and with both 29 hp Yanmars at only 2200 rpm, we do about 6+ kts (hard to say with the current and
wind), barely sipping fuel.
5/8/08
Have been in Savannah for a while, and staying at the Isle of Hope Marina for a week, letting mail and packages get caught up. I fitted
a screen for the companionway, and ordered the screen I want to use for the cockpit enclosure, but the job is too big and complicated
for my abilities (or lack thereof). So I ordered more stuff as an excuse to procrastinate. Maybe after I get the first part done, the rest
will not seem so daunting.
Savannah is a nice little city with lots of fun tourist stuff to do.
The photos are Fort Pulaski, which proved that modern rifled
cannon made forts obsolete. A whole corner was blasted
away from over a mile away. When the Union troops took over,
they patched it up. Learned a lot about the Civil War from an interesting Southern perspective.
The trip up the ICW took about 33 gallons of diesel, doing about 6-7knots most of the way (slower when against the tide.)
I have gotten fairly experienced with anchoring, but have only come into a dock twice. At the marina, there is a large, simple dock at the
front, where I expected to tie up, and arrange for help putting the boat where she was to go. (It is much nicer to explain your ignorance
by asking for help, than by wrecking stuff!) But NOOOOO! They said go past the fuel dock, turn around and come between the rows of
boats to the end. So here I am, the second or third time docking this boat, and I have to run the gauntlet, with tide and a little wind. With
the marina guys shouting distances between the adjacent boats it all worked out fine. Yesterday, I had to move the boat to another
dock - which meant backing out!! With the great help from these guys, I managed fine and a crisis was averted. The marina allows the
2 hr use of a borrower car for local trips, which is a great convenience. (and recommended). It even makes picking up a rental car
much easier. I plan to visit again on the way South in the Fall.
The wind is picking up and it is getting quite bouncy. The outer dock protects the boats inside it, but the boats on the outside start
rockin'. The movement feels quite nice, but now I feel like I need a nap. Pity the small monohulls out here.
At the other end of this dock is a large (125 ft) Hinkley yacht. The owner just put $6 million into her to spruce her up. There will leave
soon for an 18 month voyage. I would hate to buy the 7000 gallons of fuel to fill the tanks. The generator alone takes 6 gallons per hour.
Next week, maybe Wednesday AM, it will be further northward travels. South Carolina is next.
5/13
So far it is a go to head out tomorrow. The plan is to head into the ocean up to Georgetown. From there we can access the ICW again,
and visit Prince Creek, which I hear is great. In one to two weeks, the Chesapeake, and Annapolis. It may be a while before I have high
speed internet.
5/26
After a fast trip motorsailing up the ICW, and two stints into the ocean we made it to Solomons, Maryland. It is south of Annapolis,
and is built around the water. I have reserved a dock space (Solomons Harbor) for a week and will try to explore the area a bit after
that. They are very helpful, and like everywhere on the East Coast (unlike the West Coast) are there to help with docking. Make sure
you have fender boards, since you will be tying up to posts up here. I expect to return, since it is quite nice here, with easy walking to
groceries, and a West Marine store, and is much less expensive than Annapolis.
In answer to the question of "do you know it all yet", there is always a lot to learn (and always will be), but after a point that you have
survived enough different challenges/adversities, the comfort level builds. And no, I'm not there yet.
The critters giving most delight are the dolphins. Further south we saw them every day. Some were even close to the boat and would
hang around for a while. The alligators in the ICW were also a big kick, especially when they spook and go for a swim. Who knows
where they will go? Haven't seen many snakes, and I certainly don't mind that! You don't see seals or sea lions like you do on the west
coast. Wild horses, raccoons, and armadillos were nice to see. Startled a deer about 20 feet away on one of our hikes.
I'll fill in a few details within a few days, after I get caught up on some projects.
The first two photos are alligators. The second was small, - maybe six feet. The third and fourth photos are not alligators, but are
some of their small channels we explored by dinghy, a flowers there. Changing Spots is anchored in 25 feet of water, in a channel just
over 100 feet wide (and about a hundred yards from one of the alligators we photographed - it was only the small one though). It was
almost warm enough for a swim! I wonder if alligators like to climb aboard boats?
The sixth is obviously a sunset, but with another boat. In one channel, the wind was too strong, from the wrong direction, and the
channel was too narrow for even putting up the genoa sail. I know, because I tried.
Life is great. Enjoy it.
6/17/2008
Back in Solomons to have some warranty work done on the boat. There was a small leak in the port fuel tank which made that aft
cabin unbearable. It was only about a teaspoon a day, but the odor permeates. The saving grace was the use of a dryer sheet in the
area, and daily wiping up. ( I wouldn't have believed it either.) Zahniser's Yacht Center (at Solomons) did a very professional job of the
repair. Now to anchor for a couple of nights, and back to Solomons Harbor Marina (it feels like home now). If you stay there, don't
forget to check out the happy hour at the Holiday Inn.
Had a couple of weeks exploring the Chesapeake south of here. Reedville is a quaint little town with wonderful anchorages (unless
there is a south breeze, which brings the odor of the fish processing plant). The people are very friendly, and will get another visit next
fall. Many of these small towns have museums, and most are definitely worth a visit. The next stop was Deltaville, just as the heat
wave started. Then we spent a night at Irvington, and stopped the boat way out in the Chesapeake and went for a swim. What a
refreshing break.
The first photo is the harbor at Deltaville with a morning fog, next is a beautiful boat (power) at Irvington, where the sunset photo was
also taken. The ship is a Navy target in the Chesapeake.
We hoped to be able to beat the heat by heading to the Eastern Shore. No luck beating the heat on the Eastern Shore - and we
discovered (and they discovered us)- BUGS. The flies looked just like houseflies, but bit and drew blood, but they weren't as bad as the
deerflies. Then at night came the mosquitoes. I wore out a fly swatter! Onancock was another great place to visit. We wanted to
get a few provisions and fill a small gas tank about a mile from the marina. We had three offers for rides. Tangier Island is another
place on the "must visit again list", and I promised the harbormaster that we would stay at the marina next time. Then it was back to
Solomons for heat and bug relief and A/C, in time for the heat wave to mellow.
We anchored one night in a sheltered bay off the Patuxent River. The skates, which are small rays, were interesting to watch.
Better yet was the phosphorescence. A swim at night was fascinating. This was not the phosphorescence I have seen before, but was
large flashes. It turned out to be small jellyfish, which you could catch in your hand. No, they didn't sting.
Also had one episode of engine trouble. While motoring along with both engines running, there was aloud alarm, which turned out to be
the port engine overheat alarm. And there was steam, not water coming out of the exhaust. Put it in idle for a few minutes before
shutting it down, and slow the other engine a bit (don't want it to overheat). After trying a couple of other things, I poured about a quart
of water into the seawater strainer, the engine ran fine. It must have dislodged whatever was blocking the water intake. It sure is nice
to have a simple solution, although it didn't feel simple while hanging onto the engine compartment as we were powering into the wind
and waves.
6/19/2008
I would like to thank those who email or call in response to my web site. It encourages me to take the time to work on it, especially
when internet access is hard to come by.
I hope that the previous section wasn't too negative about cruising (or the Chesapeake) since it was clearly the exception.
We just got back from anchoring in a small bay at the entrance to St Leonard Creek. (Just off the Patuxent river off the
Chesapeake.) There was a small dock with a private property sign. We asked the man who was working on the dock what was there,
and he said that it was the Morgan State University campus doing research on intertidal zones, and a state park with a major
anthropology center. The later was regarding a naval battle of the 1812 war, and indian villages. NO PROBLEM, welcome! Not only
was the anchorage absolutely beautiful and sheltered, but the hike and exploration was great fun.
The last photo is a hand written version of the star spangled banner by the author. He was at this battle before the one at Fort McHenry,
Baltimore which inspired the song. Rockets were used at the Patuxent also. I bet you didn't know all these verses!
7/12/2008
Greetings from Manhattan! A lot has happened since the last update, but much of the reason for not updating the site for so long is
the lack of reasonable speed internet.
After a side trip to explore DC for three days, we motorsailed across the Chesapeake to Oxford on the Eastern Shore. Another pretty
place that didn't get explored enough. The plan was to then visit a highly spoken of place called St. Michaels; but the forecast wind was
perfect for a sail all the way to Annapolis. At least it started off perfect, then the wind died. It was a good day to try the gennaker again
(successfully again, but not for long).
We managed to anchor near the end of Spa Creek in Annapolis for several days. It was along dinghy ride to town,but beautiful and
quiet. Thunderstorms almost every afternoon provided quite a show, but almost cancelled the July 4 fireworks. I was hoping to get a
mooring ball right on the city front, but people arrived days in advance to get a spot for the show. The heavy rains all afternoon stopped
my plans to take the dinghy there, but the show was pretty good from the distant anchorage. I also painted some identifying marks on
the dinghy outboard.
While in Annapolis I bought a Sailrite sewing machine, in preparation for some big projects planned. If you get one, I very strongly
recommend also getting the Monster wheel with the hand crank. This gives great control for fine work that you can't get with an
electric motor (not just the increased power). I made a lifting harness for the outboard motor, and a wind scoop, which works great. I
plan to make a large awning for the bows and forward part of the cabin, which will also be a rain catchment.
Then the test began. So far I have not singlehanded this boat, but I didn't want to stay in Annapolis long enough to wait for crew.
A friend, who is singlehanding her boat up the coast was stopped in Annapolis on the way to Long Island, where she has been
scheduled to teach sailing. (She teaches women to sail and cruise, and if you know any women who need their sailing abilities or
confidence beefed up, let me know. I think she would be great, even if she sails a monohull.)
I singlehanded my previous boat a lot, but this is much more boat. The plan was to get through the C&D canal (connects the
Chesapeake to the Delaware Bay) on day one, but because of a delayed start, we didn't even get to the canal. Then an early start to get
to Cape May, at the south end of New Jersey, at the mouth of the Delaware Bay. So in day one of singlehanding I anchored twice,
tied up to a fuel dock and rafted up to another boat (in the dark). What an introduction!
It hit the fan on day two. No problems getting the sails up (or down), or navigating the trip. There was an episode during one of
the severe downpours with poor visibility of a ghostly white apparition appearing under a bridge. Turns out it was a large car freighter,
which passed by harmlessly. Before I get to the real story, I want to comment on the windscreen option. It is a wonderful piece of
crap! The latter refers to the cheap "vinyl" that you can barely see through. Even though you can't see well through it, you can see
around it, and for light rain you can slide it aside a bit. I was so dry sitting up on the helm seat, I failed to notice that the other side of the
seat was wet until it was too late. Other than a wet butt, I was quite dry. Delaware Bay was a long upwind slog, motorsailing. It took
forever for the nuclear plant to disappear. The photo shows a juxtaposition.
After rounding Cape May into the Atlantic we headed to the channel to get into the harbor. Suddenly the bilge pump alarm and light
went on, and on. I checked the starboard bilge where there has always been a small leak - no problem. The port bilge was awash -
with salt water. Tear off all the floorboards, close all the through hull fittings, lift the float mechanism to keep the bilge pump working
better. Water was coming in through the through hull fitting for the knot meter. After tightening it a few turns, the leak stopped. Crisis
averted!
Then the channel markers ahead disappeared in the fog. There were huge markers leading to the channel approach, and they couldn't
be seen until less than a hundred feet away. The stone breakwater was showing up on radar, and it agreed with the GPS, so go for it.
After some rip currents at the entrance, and keeping the breakwater the same distance to starboard, we were doing 5 knots with the
engines in idle forward gear (lots of current). Fortunately the fog improved considerably going in the channel, but it was now getting
dark. So now it was time to anchor in a strange place, with fog, almost dark, and lots of current. I think it took a few hours for the
adrenalin rush to resolve. What a rush! But I felt like I had just been given a trial - and passed.
After that, I wasn't concerned about the next leg, which was an overnight sail up the coast of New Jersey, for a daylight arrival in New
York. Of course singlehanding, in an area with lots of vessel traffic, you don't sleep.
It was a muggy, hazy arrival in New York, then we anchored at a very secluded, protected spot behind the Statue of Liberty in the
park area. Blessed sleep by noon. My friend left the next day for Long Island but I spent another night, and enjoyed another great
rainstorm. The next step was to spend a week at the 79th St Boat Basin in Manhattan, where I confirmed I could get a mooring ball
for a week (without spending a fortune). I checked with a marina in Jersey City and they wanted $500 a night!!!
Now I have heard from sailors (monohulls) that picking up a mooring ball singlehanded is one of the more challenging maneuvers. A
French catamaran followed me all the way up the Hudson River, past the Manhattan skyline, and took the mooring ball right
behind me. And no, I didn't embarrass my countrymen, and I am sure I fooled everybody and made it look like a perfect pick up. Just
like I knew what I was doing, and this was with a strong current, and wind from another direction. I really love the two engines.
Any idea what the name on the red ship name means?
Of course any trip to New York requires a visit to ground zero. It was a bit disappointing to not have any monument
or memorial yet.
9/18
I thought I would update a bit, although I won't have internet to be able to get it updated online for a while. I did a singlehanded trip from
the Hudson River at the 79th st Boat Basin to Long Island sound. If you time it right, you can ride the current down the Hudson,
and then up the East River though Hell Gate into Long Island Sound. Hell gate was a piece of cake, with the only challenge being
getting from the Hudson river around the bend through the Brooklyn bridge. The ferryboats line up waiting to get into their docks,
and don't have much patience for a small sailboat (motoring, of course). You need to run their gauntlet, and cross their paths
somewhere. It is so nice to be able to travel without a schedule. You don't need to push it (unless the weather or tides give a very
good reason. Their are significant tides around here, so if you time it, your journey is much more pleasant and speedier going with the
current rather than fighting it. With the current it was an easy trip to Manhasset Bay from 3:30 PM to 7 PM. It was another easy
day to Port Jefferson the next day. Where I chose to anchor was tricky. It went from 30 ft to 4 ft deep in a very short distance. It
was fun taking the dinghy for the mile ride into town in the dark, and then finding the boat after. If I weren't after food I didn't need to
cook, I would have appreciated the live music that many towns put on. There were lots of tourists, but I didn't feel like one. Do swans
taste like chicken?
The plan for the next day heading to Shelter Island, was to be a late start, rather than fighting the contrary tide all morning. This part
of the trip had been motoring, since the winds were very light. Once in a while I would try the genoa. However, next morning there was
wind, and who would know how long it would last. Instead of waiting until almost noon to start, the sails were up by 9 AM. I still needed
to keep an engine running most of the way since there was a SCHEDULE here. I needed to go though a tidal race called Plum Gut with
a favorable tide - or else. Going with the tide, I didn't see what all the fuss was about. I also suspected it was going to take a long time
to fight the wind the last 6 miles to Shelter island. With one engine slowly running at 2200 rpm we were doing 9-10 kts. Alas, it was
only 7.5 to 8.5 with the sails alone, even with lots of wind.
After a night rafted with Louise and her guests (on Blue Planet) we headed off next day for a short trip to Montauk Bay. The first part
was a leisurely almost downwind sail at 3.5 to 4.5 kts (got to scrub the slime off the boat bottom) with the genoa only filling sometime.
I'm not ready for the gennaker singlehanded yet. And a good thing that day! After rounding the "ruins", and heading up about 90 deg
went up to 7.5 to 8.5 kts for the next 9 miles. Close to the destination, and out of the shelter of Gardiners Island, the wind picked up
and the boat started to feel a bit over powered. After rolling up the genoa, it was still 9 to 9.5 kts. Fortunately, now that I have the right
block for the main halyard, it is now easy to get the main down. Aim the boat into the wind, release the halyard, and let it fall. Just don't
let the line tangle. (With the original block, it twisted the halyard around itself, and it was not only very difficult to get the sail up, but you
also had to pull it down.)
"Lake" Montauk is a near perfect anchorage. It is very large and 8 ft deep all over - except the narrow, twisting channel getting in.
There is a main harbor at the entrance. Got a chance to hike and explore and check out the Atlantic ocean. It was pretty rough from
the storms down south.
Got back from town in time to see the boats disappear in the fog. No real problem though.
We had a USCG official inspection today. It was a great group of guys, some seemed like kids. I think they just wanted to check out
the new catamaran. They said the "gold sheet" they gave me after today's inspection was good for a year and to show it to the CG if
boarded again within that time. They also said that I might be "inspected" again if somebody wants to check out the catamaran.
A word of advice to any with evil intent: don't get a new Leopard catamaran. There were lots of oohs and aahs during the inspection,
and it was quite fun (except we got a late start for our hike. They were also quite happy to tell us what places to check out in town. I
hope I didn't hurt their feelings too much when I said that the best job in the world was being an astronaut - not being a coastie. (The
second best job is being an allergist.)
I also just came to the realization that I have never been better in my life. This time it isn't just a contrast from having malaria, but I
am healthier than ever. No, I'm not going to cancel my new health insurance (now that my cobra has run out).
7/27/08
Have been at anchor in Greenport, Long Island, NY for a few nights. It was a bit rocky at times until this weekend when all the big
powerboats started arriving. Even on the stable platform of a catamaran things were flying. I was planning to take my laptop into town
to access high speed internet and get the website updated, but it has been one thunderstorm after another all day. One storm had 35
knot winds, gusting to 43. Quite spectacular. A powerboat anchored behind me, just before the storms hit. That photo isn't out of
focus, it is the rain. Sure am glad I have lots of room to use lots of chain on my anchor.
LEOPARD QUALITY REPORT!
I had a bit of a shock yesterday. The boat has been getting much more sluggish recently, and I have noticed considerable slime on the
hull, but hadn't looked too closely. Yesterday was the first opportunity in almost two months to check the bottom. Instead of just slime,
I found a thick growth of barnacles over most of the hull. Talk about putting on the brakes! Sorry no photos.
I still believe that Robertson & Caine take quality control seriously and stand behind their product and service. I hope and expect that
this will be taken care of promptly by R&C as a warranty item, possibly in Newport, but it is an inconvenience.
7/28/08
Hot off the press!
I just sent them the email last night about this problem, and already got a phone call this morning to get the process started. Hopefully
it will be done right next week in Newport.
The winds from the third storm yesterday came from a different direction,and my anchor dragged about 75 ft before resetting.
Regardless, I put out all the chain (160 ft) instead of the 100 ft I had in 15 ft of water, and backed down on it to make sure it was firmly
set.
Late last night I was out checking my position, by which time it was a beautiful clear calm night. I saw a small boat approaching with a
spotlight, slowly. When they saw me they turned on the flashing blue lights and identified themselves a coastguard. As soon as I
identified my boat as Changing Spots, one of the Coasties shouted "Yo, Robert!" It was the guys with whom I had such a fun visit in
Montauk a few days ago. When I told them I had seen 43 knots of wind, they replied that at their station they saw 59.5 knots. They also
very courteously left without any wake until they were well beyond me.
8/01/2008
Good news!
I got approval to get the boat bottom done, and it is scheduled to start Monday AM.
AND, in the meantime, I just happened to get to Newport early enough to get one of the few great anchoring spots for this weekend's
Newport Folk Festival. Although the concert should be fine from the cockpit, I will probably take to dinghy close to shore to hear
Jimmy Buffet.
08/08/08
The concert and Jimmy Buffet were great. I wish I could say the same for the boaters who I had assumed were there for the concert.
Enough said, but they made it difficult to hear and enjoy some of the concert.
On Sat afternoon, it rained for over an hour, then stopped. There was a break in the music when I noticed some really weird looking
dark clouds. Although the wind was from another direction, I headed back to the boat just in time for the downpour, and within a few
more minutes the wind started howling. A raft-up of 6 powerboats dragged anchor towards a new Catana 50 catamaran. Fortunately,
there were enough people aboard that a disaster was averted. After that, a whole lot of people were playing the re-anchor shuffle, in
an already overcrowded anchorage.
Monday morning the boat was hauled and found to be a great mess of barnacles. A representative from Interlux paint company was
there taking photos and samples. It appears that somebody in South Africa didn't do their job right. The good news is that this was an
isolated problem, AND R&C are standing behind their work. Good thing too! The prices in this area are high, even by south Florida
standards. New England Boatworks, in Portsmouth, RI did a very professional job. Sorry, I didn't get any "after" photos - but the
boat sure moves better. Can't wait to get her sailing again.
I am back at anchor in Newport, but even with a Friday arrival, it is not crowded for this weekend's Jazz festival. Good thing too.
Another storm rolled through and a sailboat did a very fast anchor drag. Also a good thing that the two guys were still aboard. Of
course now that I have lost trust in my anchor (a 45# Delta with 160' of 3/8" chain), I envision dragging anchor with every storm.
Interesting though: I love the storms, and don't want to miss them. (Good thing too, especially if the anchor drags.) To me, being in
the wind, rain, thunder and lightning is being in church and good for the soul.
For piece of mind I ordered a new anchor - a Manson supreme, 60#, which is one of the new generation super anchors. Unfortunately,
it didn't arrive today as scheduled, so I need to stay here until Tuesday. However, West Marine did offer to deliver it for me.
Send me a message with your thoughts, comments or questions, or just to say HI, I love hearing from you. Now if I can just get some
high speed internet so I can get it online.
8/12/08
What a miserable night! Oh, I'm sorry, I should say "what an adventure!" I was awakened at 2:30 with a wet area on the
bed. (I guess that could have been worse.) It had started to rain, and I left the hatch over the bed open (I usually do, unless rain is
imminent). Of course, with a storm, you go on deck and check your position (and the other boats around you). This is even more
important when you don't trust your anchor. Great, the boat was near a mooring ball in the same position as when I first anchored.
The previous night I thought the boat might be dragging anchor since it seemed close to another marker. Just as I was starting to feel
better about the anchor, the mooring ball got closer, then almost hit. Rather than re-anchor (a very difficult thing to do singlehanded
with lots of wind, at night), I thought I would just tie up to the mooring ball until morning. Easy. Put on lots of line, get the engines going
and hoist anchor. When the anchor comes free, you're already attached to the buoy.
About 5 AM, I finally gave up. The anchor wasn't going anywhere, and I was tied to the mooring ball in case the anchor came free. At 7
AM it was still windy (but not bad now, about 20 kts). When I went to check the anchor, I could see it, near the surface in 30 ft of water.
It had snagged something, a large rusty cable, and if I powered up the engines (a lot), I could move the boat up or down the cable.
At noon, it was finally cleared. I thought I might need to put on snorkel gear, but eventually got the anchor up enough (when the wind
died) to put a shackle in the back of the anchor. This was attached to a line to the bow. Then by lowering the anchor chain, the 2 inch
diameter rusty iron cable fell off. Needless to say, I tried lots of other things before this worked.
There has been a lot of rain here. The locals are asking when summer will start. I have been in "church" enough that my soul should
be fine for a long time. However, I do enjoy the warm days and cool nights.
Don't need to make any windscoops here. I made rain guards out of Sunbrella fabric and attached them to the sides of the "wind
shield". They work fine at keeping most of the rain out of the cockpit. At least it is warm rain. My internet on the boat is hit-or-miss
(mostly the latter), so I usually need to take the laptop to shore to get online. Not a good idea with the intensity of the thunderstorms.
8/13/08
Interesting! After the strains and exertions of yesterday, I expected to have some aches and pains, but no!!!, and it is a beautiful day.
I had high speed internet on the boat last night, but it didn't last long enough to upload the website.
8/17/08
I now have the new anchor, and bridle, and will pick up a mooring today so I can
change my ground tackle. Old anchor, 45 # Delta on left, new 60# Manson
Supreme, on right.
I certainly wasn't expecting to be here this long. Tomorrow I will start north again. Everybody says Maine is worth the fog, and lobster
trap obstacle course. Indeed it has been said that you will snag at least one, and you need a wet suit for the cold water. My question is
that if I have to cut the line, do I get to pull up the trap and keep the lobster?
I also want to thank the Newport Yacht Club for their wonderful hospitality. It is refreshing to visit such a friendly club, and it
reminds me of my Richmond Yacht Club in California.
8/19
At anchor in Vineyard Haven, on Martha's Vineyard. Spent last night at Cuttyhunk. Both days of sailing were perfect at 7 to 9
kts in 10 to 15 kts wind and favorable current. Did the short hike to the top of Tower Hill for the view, and blackberries. We were
invited to a local talent show by the town pianist, who happens to be a sailor, but we couldn't wait until Wednesday night. Thanks for
the hospitality.
After anchoring, we did a short trip ashore in Vineyard Haven, and plan to be here for two days. The timing is good because they are
having their annual Illumination Night. Will have to wait and see what it is. We will probably miss the fireworks that happen the next
night. Tomorrow we explore.
Who is that crusty, salty looking character? The big sailing ship is the Alabama. There are many such vessels in the NE, and they are
beautiful to behold.
Then we head to Nantucket to await a favorable weather window for the offshore passage to Maine. George knows this area well,
but hasn't been to Maine. I'm looking forward to going through prime whale watching country. His wife June will probably stay home in
Nantucket.
Hopefully the ferry will come back soon so I can access their WiFi to upload this report. There are only very weak signals in the harbor,
even with the WiFi extender system, until the ferry comes in.
The Vineyard Haven harbor is very well protected on three sides - the only problem is that there is a 20 to 25 kt wind from the fourth
direction, so it is a rock and roll night. I think that when we pick up the new anchor I will kiss it a big thanks, smelly mud and all.
However, for those with Leopard 40 catamarans thinking of upgrading anchors, go with the Rocna anchor instead. The problem,
although relatively minor, is that because of the thickness of the shaft of the Manson, it doesn't fit well into the anchor rollers.
I recommend Vineyard Haven for cruisers, with the caveat that the anchorage is open to one side. There is a convenient dinghy
dock, and showers at the harbormaster office (free), as well as close walking distance to a supermarket, hardware store, West
Marine (small), fuel, bus service, and numerous restaurants. The bus service was a good way to explore Edgartown, and check out
the On-Time ferries to Chappaquiddick. We happened to be in Oak Bluffs in time for the annual Illumination Festival, with many
thousands of others. There is music and synchronized lighting of lanterns (mainly the oriental paper ones) on the fronts of all the
houses.
8/21/2008
Safely secured to George and June's mooring in Nantucket. They have kindly offered the grand tour (plus of course the sailors
delight of long showers and laundry - we are easily pleased) of this historic nautical location. On Sat AM, the passage around Cape
Cod to Maine.
I have been asked why there is no information about who is with me on parts of the journey. Believe me, with her permission, you will
know about her - once the right, long term crew is found. Also, in spite of popular demand, there are photos of me, not hamming it up
(how dull). See the bottom of the page below. And if that doesn't scare you......
8/24/08
Today we arrived at the most northern destination for my eastern US part of the journey, Rockland, ME. We left Nantucket yesterday
around 8:30 AM, and arrived here this afternoon. Except for not enough wind, the weather was perfect,with a beautiful sunrise,
sunset, and even a few whales for added spice. A ship anchored outside the harbor had an F24 as a dinghy.
We had considered stopping at a small island called Matinicus, but for reasons finalized because of an unmerciful minefield of
lobster pots, we kept on to Rockland (not to be confused with Rockport, a short distance away). We tried fishing for the first time. At
least we didn't loose anything. I don't think the seaweed we caught would have been suitable for sushi. The fishing wasn't a total bust
however, since this little guy liked the cat so much he swam onto the aft deck.
8/25
Rockland, ME
Anchored yesterday in the south part of the sheltered harbor, fixed the navigation lights which were only working intermittently on the
overnight passage. Fortunately, there were no other boats at all. Went to town and met some cruisers. One couple had spent 5 years
cruising the Med, and were happy to share their experiences with a novice cruiser. Isn't the cruising life great!?
After a huge lobster/shrimp dinner, we got back to the boat and did some work on the website. I stepped onto the cockpit and couldn't
see the light on the shore or any boats anchored nearby. This morning the fog started lifting, so I can show a taste of cruising in Maine.
8/29
At anchor in Porpoise Cove, ME
We quite enjoyed Rockland, and didn't see any more fog - only warm days and cool nights. Perfect weather, but a warning that winter
is on its way. After three nights we started a leisurely pace south, doing 25 -50 miles per day. The first day out, in spite of constant
dodging of lobster pots, we saw seals, and numerous small porpoises.
Regarding lobster pots, they are traps, not so much for lobsters, but for boats. They lure you down a line which ends in a solid mass of
traps - with no escape. The lines can snag you hull, or propeller, and cause serious damage. Plan severaqlmoves ahead,like a chess
game.
If you saw a large log floating in the water, you should call the CG and report a hazard to navigation. These traps are much more
dangerous, and are set in anchorages, and even in shipping channels. The only limitation I have seen is that they are not set where the
large ships navigate, or they would get "blenderized" in the ships propellers. I have seen them 18 miles from shore in 380 feet of
water. Some even work in pairs. Often a stealthy one will lurk just below the surface waiting to grab an unsuspecting victim. There
are so many lobster pots that I can't imagine how any lobsters survive. I am determined to be the first(?) cruiser to escape Maine
without having to clear a lobster pot line (water temperature 56 deg F).
We spent a night at Linekin Bay (right near Booth Bay for people who have sailed here), and anchored in what looked like a
mountain lake. We then joined another boat in Quohog Bay, in another postcard setting. The cockpit at night is like a religious
experience, even without the thunderstorm. Oh, did I mention that there were two days of biting black flies, which disappeared at
night? We bypassed Portland, ME, but had planned to stop there. The lobster pots make travel difficult, and even dangerous, which
is not the way cruising should be. It has been worth it to visit Maine, but this is Russian roulette that you can't win forever.
Porpoise Bay is not for cruisers and the small harbor is full of mooring balls. However, we managed to find a spot to drop the sleep
insurance anchor. There aren't set up for cruisers, but it might be a good place to get lobster (if I hadn't sworn them off!) We are only
about 3 miles from Kennebunkport, but we don't plan on doing any visiting there. Today, besides the seals and porpoises, we saw
whales, possibly Right whales. The second time they were fairly close and we could see them smiling.
Rockport, MA was a worthwhile stopover for two nights. It certainly deserves its name, on more than one account. The harbor is
surrounded by stone slabs, which make me think of the European cities. It also was one of the most rocky, bouncy anchorages, and
you couldn't even blame the powerboats. The second night we anchored on the other side of the bay (not in the harbor) to avoid wave
surge (it didn't help!). We could hear and feel the anchor dragging across the solid rock bottom three times until we tried again at a
distance.
After two nights we headed to Province Town. One spot must have been really dangerous since they had two lighthouses!
(Actually, I suspect they were used as a range.) P town was interesting in itself, even without the nautical influence. Not only was this
classic ship a site to behold, but there was a race of gaff rigged ships ending in the harbor the next morning.
After two nights we had a great sail reeling in the monohulls on the way to the
Cape Cod canal. This is another place where you need to time the tides.
9/07
A 500 mile excursion
Newport, RI
Back after a week and a half journey to my northernmost point in Maine.
George has a website with photos and some video of the journey at sailing a catamaran to Maine.
After a couple of nights at anchor, I decided to get out of this crowded anchorage to enjoy my date with Hannah (tropical storm).
Although a bit wild later on, she was fun and gentle with me. A borrowed mooring at Portsmouth, RI (thank you) worked out
perfectly.
9/20/2008
Much has happened in the last week. (No, I'm not going to tell you everything!) The Newport boat show was fun, but didn't have the
selection of things I am looking for, so almost everything will have to wait for the Annapolis show. So much to get, and so little to
spend, but it will all work out just fine.
My new crew will join me on Monday to start the journey to Annapolis. Since we are leaving so late, we will not be exploring the
Connecticut side of Long Island Sound, but will take the offshore route to Cape May, NJ, then up the Delaware bay to the
C&D canal to the Chesapeake. After a little exploring of the northern Chesapeake, it will be time to head to Annapolis, well
before the boat show to assure a good anchorage.
Newport is such a spectacular sailing city. Yesterday a fleet of 12 meter boats sailed by, a hundred yards for where I am anchored.
They all had their support boats ($200-300k each) and there was a helicopter to monitor the fleet. They had a race mark 200 yards
away, then went upwind into the main town area for the finish. What a show. Every day the gaff rigged schooners take tours out for a
sail.
9/25/2008
Offshore route plans changed.
At anchor off City island, near New York City, awaiting a gale to blow over, and a favorable tide to run through Hell Gate to the
city. Then pick up a mooring at 79th Street Boat Basin to await the end of offshore gales for the overnight offshore run to Cape May,
NJ. Today we had an exhilarating sail (with engine on) in 25 kts wind - directly downwind - to City Island.
On the way, we spent a night at Giant's Neck, then at Long Neck, CT.
After all my experiences with anchoring, I decided to start writing an article for one of the sailing magazines (Multihulls?) about the
topic. So much is done outside of what the books say is supposed to be done, and there is so much else to learn. Indeed, if you
anchored by the book, you would create havoc and destruction, and be driven out of a typical crowded anchorage.
Life is so good, and cruising just amplifies it.
11/06/08
At a dock in the town of Deep Creek, at the north end of the Great Dismal Swamp.
It has been a very active time,with lots of projects to do and things to try to get done, but I am finally trying to get an update on the
website.
The article was sent to Multihulls magazine a couple of weeks ago, but I haven't heard anything yet.
To continue the journey where we left off, the trip through Hell Gate was uneventful except for early fog, and then all the USCG boats
patrolling the backside of Manhattan on the East River. It turns out they had lots of extra security because of something going on
at the UN. We got the last mooring ball at the 79th St marina, and no wonder (see photo of the mooring line)!!! Those two tiny
remaining strands held us against the current (running the engines probably helped) until we could get another line on it. We also saw
a large pleasure boat we had seen before in Nantucket. We had two busy days walking/exploring Manhattan.
We had a great sail down the NY cityfront, past Sandy Hook, and down the New Jersey coast. Late in the afternoon we set
the fishing line, and within a half hour heard the line being dragged out. Damn, more seaweed, except this time there was a fish! We
suspected it was a blue, which is oily and fishy tasting, but we were determined to eat it anyway. After doing all we could to overpower
the taste, we cooked and ate it. In spite of being buried in onion and lemon juice it was bland (but much better than fishy). Now... how
do you cut a fillet to keep the bones out? But we had dinner just before a weird sunset, survived. This is what the sun looked like, and
is not a photo artifact.
Our goal was to get down the coast overnight and up Delaware Bay so we could get through the C&D canal with a favorable tide.
With one engine running slowly, and the sails set we realized that we would be heading up the Delaware Bay in the middle of the
night. Not a good idea, considering all the crab pots we saw on the way up in July. We had the luxury of being able to stop the engine
and just sail for several hours, and still arrived at Delaware bay in the dark.
It seemed like we would never get past the lights of Atlantic City, but had a beautiful overnight trip down the coast.
It turns out the C&D canal was closed because a ship had run aground. As we got there, the canal had opened and the current was
just changing in our favor. We anchored in a pretty and secluded spot, great anchorage in the Sassafras River in the early afternoon.
The fish were jumping and the Canada geese were very scenic. The next morning we heard explosions in the distance which we
guessed might have been from the Aberdeen proving grounds. We also fought the current all the rest of the way to Annapolis.
It was over a week until the start of the boat show, and already the whole place was filling up. We again anchored way up Spa Creek,
even closer to the end, in a very tight spot. The foxes (not that kind) were fun to watch in the morning.
We had four major items to get, but only got two - solar panels and a watermaker - and I will probably install them myself. The funds
set aside for this dried up along with the stock market, and I couldn't get good enough deals to justify removing any funds when they
are this low. I ordered the Spectra Cape Horn Extreme watermaker,and two Mitsubishi 185 W solar panels. The latter were chosen
because they will fit on a SS tube between the dinghy davits. They will be able to pivot, and will even shelter the dinghy a bit. I have
installed the SS tube, and it is a very heavy wall version, attached with stanchion mounts. I could do chin-ups on it (if I could do
chin-ups). I have ordered aluminum to fabricate a frame to strengthen the solar panels and plan to work on this in Wilmington, NC
when we are there (I think I will need to have good access to marine electrical parts). I guess I'll be going to the Miami show in Feb to
finish my shopping, as long as the stock market smartens up by then.
The boat show was good, and we went every day (as volunteers for Womanship). We helping get Louise's boat (Blue Planet) in, out and
prepped for her demonstration at the show. My sewing machine got put to work on her boat, and by coincidence we were right by the
Sailrite booth. I also got my cockpit cushions started! After almost two weeks there it was time to head south again since it was
getting chilly.
On Oct 14 we headed to Solomons again. I like it there. We stayed at the Solomons Harbor marina again, this time for two weeks. It
was the first time at a marina since leaving there in June. Say hello to John if you go there, he is very helpful, and makes the place so
friendly. Aahhh, the luxury of lots of water and electricity. I even spent three nights off the boat (now a total of 5 nights since moving
aboard in Feb) to visit my daughter who had a concert in Kentucky.
So many projects are easier at a dock, and with shore power, that the cockpit cushions are all done, even backs. If the solar panels
had arrived on schedule, I would have had them installed. It was nice having easy access to get needed parts, and fortunately,the solar
panels finally arrived.
We had a great sail down to Tangier Island, in the middle of Chesapeake Bay. It was one of those places that I had to visit again.
The dialect is so quaint, and the golf cart tour of the island was such a kick. The next day we headed for Hampton, VA, but only got
as far as Back River. It was weird, being so large but with such shallow water outside of the channels. The ship aground was a
sorry sight, but was more than made up for the next morning when a large pod of dolphins started playing around us. Even better was
their swimming in our bow wave!!!
Hampton was great. We thought about spending a day, possibly two and stayed four nights. We had a good visit with people who
were preparing for the Carib 1500 regatta. It was delayed several days because of an Atlantic storm. The Mariners museum in
Newport News was well worth the visit, even the bus rides to get there. Plan on a whole long day. We also did a very pretty 5 mile
hike around the park. And no, they weren't celebrating our arrival, but a football game. They did a freefall with pink smoke before
opening the chutes. Also arrived back at the boat one day to find the Shards' new boat tied up next to us. Their DVDs (Distant Shores)
about cruising the Med have been an inspiration to me for years.
After a fast trip motorsailing up the ICW, and two stints into the ocean we made it to Solomons, Maryland. It is south of Annapolis,
and is built around the water. I have reserved a dock space (Solomons Harbor) for a week and will try to explore the area a bit after
that. They are very helpful, and like everywhere on the East Coast (unlike the West Coast) are there to help with docking. Make sure
you have fender boards, since you will be tying up to posts up here. I expect to return, since it is quite nice here, with easy walking to
groceries, and a West Marine store, and is much less expensive than Annapolis.
In answer to the question of "do you know it all yet", there is always a lot to learn (and always will be), but after a point that you have
survived enough different challenges/adversities, the comfort level builds. And no, I'm not there yet.
The critters giving most delight are the dolphins. Further south we saw them every day. Some were even close to the boat and would
hang around for a while. The alligators in the ICW were also a big kick, especially when they spook and go for a swim. Who knows
where they will go? Haven't seen many snakes, and I certainly don't mind that! You don't see seals or sea lions like you do on the west
coast. Wild horses, raccoons, and armadillos were nice to see. Startled a deer about 20 feet away on one of our hikes.
I'll fill in a few details within a few days, after I get caught up on some projects.
The first two photos are alligators. The second was small, - maybe six feet. The third and fourth photos are not alligators, but are
some of their small channels we explored by dinghy, a flowers there. Changing Spots is anchored in 25 feet of water, in a channel just
over 100 feet wide (and about a hundred yards from one of the alligators we photographed - it was only the small one though). It was
almost warm enough for a swim! I wonder if alligators like to climb aboard boats?
The sixth is obviously a sunset, but with another boat. In one channel, the wind was too strong, from the wrong direction, and the
channel was too narrow for even putting up the genoa sail. I know, because I tried.
Life is great. Enjoy it.
6/17/2008
Back in Solomons to have some warranty work done on the boat. There was a small leak in the port fuel tank which made that aft
cabin unbearable. It was only about a teaspoon a day, but the odor permeates. The saving grace was the use of a dryer sheet in the
area, and daily wiping up. ( I wouldn't have believed it either.) Zahniser's Yacht Center (at Solomons) did a very professional job of the
repair. Now to anchor for a couple of nights, and back to Solomons Harbor Marina (it feels like home now). If you stay there, don't
forget to check out the happy hour at the Holiday Inn.
Had a couple of weeks exploring the Chesapeake south of here. Reedville is a quaint little town with wonderful anchorages (unless
there is a south breeze, which brings the odor of the fish processing plant). The people are very friendly, and will get another visit next
fall. Many of these small towns have museums, and most are definitely worth a visit. The next stop was Deltaville, just as the heat
wave started. Then we spent a night at Irvington, and stopped the boat way out in the Chesapeake and went for a swim. What a
refreshing break.
The first photo is the harbor at Deltaville with a morning fog, next is a beautiful boat (power) at Irvington, where the sunset photo was
also taken. The ship is a Navy target in the Chesapeake.
We hoped to be able to beat the heat by heading to the Eastern Shore. No luck beating the heat on the Eastern Shore - and we
discovered (and they discovered us)- BUGS. The flies looked just like houseflies, but bit and drew blood, but they weren't as bad as the
deerflies. Then at night came the mosquitoes. I wore out a fly swatter! Onancock was another great place to visit. We wanted to
get a few provisions and fill a small gas tank about a mile from the marina. We had three offers for rides. Tangier Island is another
place on the "must visit again list", and I promised the harbormaster that we would stay at the marina next time. Then it was back to
Solomons for heat and bug relief and A/C, in time for the heat wave to mellow.
We anchored one night in a sheltered bay off the Patuxent River. The skates, which are small rays, were interesting to watch.
Better yet was the phosphorescence. A swim at night was fascinating. This was not the phosphorescence I have seen before, but was
large flashes. It turned out to be small jellyfish, which you could catch in your hand. No, they didn't sting.
Also had one episode of engine trouble. While motoring along with both engines running, there was aloud alarm, which turned out to be
the port engine overheat alarm. And there was steam, not water coming out of the exhaust. Put it in idle for a few minutes before
shutting it down, and slow the other engine a bit (don't want it to overheat). After trying a couple of other things, I poured about a quart
of water into the seawater strainer, the engine ran fine. It must have dislodged whatever was blocking the water intake. It sure is nice
to have a simple solution, although it didn't feel simple while hanging onto the engine compartment as we were powering into the wind
and waves.
6/19/2008
I would like to thank those who email or call in response to my web site. It encourages me to take the time to work on it, especially
when internet access is hard to come by.
I hope that the previous section wasn't too negative about cruising (or the Chesapeake) since it was clearly the exception.
We just got back from anchoring in a small bay at the entrance to St Leonard Creek. (Just off the Patuxent river off the
Chesapeake.) There was a small dock with a private property sign. We asked the man who was working on the dock what was there,
and he said that it was the Morgan State University campus doing research on intertidal zones, and a state park with a major
anthropology center. The later was regarding a naval battle of the 1812 war, and indian villages. NO PROBLEM, welcome! Not only
was the anchorage absolutely beautiful and sheltered, but the hike and exploration was great fun.
The last photo is a hand written version of the star spangled banner by the author. He was at this battle before the one at Fort McHenry,
Baltimore which inspired the song. Rockets were used at the Patuxent also. I bet you didn't know all these verses!
7/12/2008
Greetings from Manhattan! A lot has happened since the last update, but much of the reason for not updating the site for so long is
the lack of reasonable speed internet.
After a side trip to explore DC for three days, we motorsailed across the Chesapeake to Oxford on the Eastern Shore. Another pretty
place that didn't get explored enough. The plan was to then visit a highly spoken of place called St. Michaels; but the forecast wind was
perfect for a sail all the way to Annapolis. At least it started off perfect, then the wind died. It was a good day to try the gennaker again
(successfully again, but not for long).
We managed to anchor near the end of Spa Creek in Annapolis for several days. It was along dinghy ride to town,but beautiful and
quiet. Thunderstorms almost every afternoon provided quite a show, but almost cancelled the July 4 fireworks. I was hoping to get a
mooring ball right on the city front, but people arrived days in advance to get a spot for the show. The heavy rains all afternoon stopped
my plans to take the dinghy there, but the show was pretty good from the distant anchorage. I also painted some identifying marks on
the dinghy outboard.
While in Annapolis I bought a Sailrite sewing machine, in preparation for some big projects planned. If you get one, I very strongly
recommend also getting the Monster wheel with the hand crank. This gives great control for fine work that you can't get with an
electric motor (not just the increased power). I made a lifting harness for the outboard motor, and a wind scoop, which works great. I
plan to make a large awning for the bows and forward part of the cabin, which will also be a rain catchment.
Then the test began. So far I have not singlehanded this boat, but I didn't want to stay in Annapolis long enough to wait for crew.
A friend, who is singlehanding her boat up the coast was stopped in Annapolis on the way to Long Island, where she has been
scheduled to teach sailing. (She teaches women to sail and cruise, and if you know any women who need their sailing abilities or
confidence beefed up, let me know. I think she would be great, even if she sails a monohull.)
I singlehanded my previous boat a lot, but this is much more boat. The plan was to get through the C&D canal (connects the
Chesapeake to the Delaware Bay) on day one, but because of a delayed start, we didn't even get to the canal. Then an early start to get
to Cape May, at the south end of New Jersey, at the mouth of the Delaware Bay. So in day one of singlehanding I anchored twice,
tied up to a fuel dock and rafted up to another boat (in the dark). What an introduction!
It hit the fan on day two. No problems getting the sails up (or down), or navigating the trip. There was an episode during one of
the severe downpours with poor visibility of a ghostly white apparition appearing under a bridge. Turns out it was a large car freighter,
which passed by harmlessly. Before I get to the real story, I want to comment on the windscreen option. It is a wonderful piece of
crap! The latter refers to the cheap "vinyl" that you can barely see through. Even though you can't see well through it, you can see
around it, and for light rain you can slide it aside a bit. I was so dry sitting up on the helm seat, I failed to notice that the other side of the
seat was wet until it was too late. Other than a wet butt, I was quite dry. Delaware Bay was a long upwind slog, motorsailing. It took
forever for the nuclear plant to disappear. The photo shows a juxtaposition.
After rounding Cape May into the Atlantic we headed to the channel to get into the harbor. Suddenly the bilge pump alarm and light
went on, and on. I checked the starboard bilge where there has always been a small leak - no problem. The port bilge was awash -
with salt water. Tear off all the floorboards, close all the through hull fittings, lift the float mechanism to keep the bilge pump working
better. Water was coming in through the through hull fitting for the knot meter. After tightening it a few turns, the leak stopped. Crisis
averted!
Then the channel markers ahead disappeared in the fog. There were huge markers leading to the channel approach, and they couldn't
be seen until less than a hundred feet away. The stone breakwater was showing up on radar, and it agreed with the GPS, so go for it.
After some rip currents at the entrance, and keeping the breakwater the same distance to starboard, we were doing 5 knots with the
engines in idle forward gear (lots of current). Fortunately the fog improved considerably going in the channel, but it was now getting
dark. So now it was time to anchor in a strange place, with fog, almost dark, and lots of current. I think it took a few hours for the
adrenalin rush to resolve. What a rush! But I felt like I had just been given a trial - and passed.
After that, I wasn't concerned about the next leg, which was an overnight sail up the coast of New Jersey, for a daylight arrival in New
York. Of course singlehanding, in an area with lots of vessel traffic, you don't sleep.
It was a muggy, hazy arrival in New York, then we anchored at a very secluded, protected spot behind the Statue of Liberty in the
park area. Blessed sleep by noon. My friend left the next day for Long Island but I spent another night, and enjoyed another great
rainstorm. The next step was to spend a week at the 79th St Boat Basin in Manhattan, where I confirmed I could get a mooring ball
for a week (without spending a fortune). I checked with a marina in Jersey City and they wanted $500 a night!!!
Now I have heard from sailors (monohulls) that picking up a mooring ball singlehanded is one of the more challenging maneuvers. A
French catamaran followed me all the way up the Hudson River, past the Manhattan skyline, and took the mooring ball right
behind me. And no, I didn't embarrass my countrymen, and I am sure I fooled everybody and made it look like a perfect pick up. Just
like I knew what I was doing, and this was with a strong current, and wind from another direction. I really love the two engines.
Any idea what the name on the red ship name means?
Of course any trip to New York requires a visit to ground zero. It was a bit disappointing to not have any monument
or memorial yet.
9/18
I thought I would update a bit, although I won't have internet to be able to get it updated online for a while. I did a singlehanded trip from
the Hudson River at the 79th st Boat Basin to Long Island sound. If you time it right, you can ride the current down the Hudson,
and then up the East River though Hell Gate into Long Island Sound. Hell gate was a piece of cake, with the only challenge being
getting from the Hudson river around the bend through the Brooklyn bridge. The ferryboats line up waiting to get into their docks,
and don't have much patience for a small sailboat (motoring, of course). You need to run their gauntlet, and cross their paths
somewhere. It is so nice to be able to travel without a schedule. You don't need to push it (unless the weather or tides give a very
good reason. Their are significant tides around here, so if you time it, your journey is much more pleasant and speedier going with the
current rather than fighting it. With the current it was an easy trip to Manhasset Bay from 3:30 PM to 7 PM. It was another easy
day to Port Jefferson the next day. Where I chose to anchor was tricky. It went from 30 ft to 4 ft deep in a very short distance. It
was fun taking the dinghy for the mile ride into town in the dark, and then finding the boat after. If I weren't after food I didn't need to
cook, I would have appreciated the live music that many towns put on. There were lots of tourists, but I didn't feel like one. Do swans
taste like chicken?
The plan for the next day heading to Shelter Island, was to be a late start, rather than fighting the contrary tide all morning. This part
of the trip had been motoring, since the winds were very light. Once in a while I would try the genoa. However, next morning there was
wind, and who would know how long it would last. Instead of waiting until almost noon to start, the sails were up by 9 AM. I still needed
to keep an engine running most of the way since there was a SCHEDULE here. I needed to go though a tidal race called Plum Gut with
a favorable tide - or else. Going with the tide, I didn't see what all the fuss was about. I also suspected it was going to take a long time
to fight the wind the last 6 miles to Shelter island. With one engine slowly running at 2200 rpm we were doing 9-10 kts. Alas, it was
only 7.5 to 8.5 with the sails alone, even with lots of wind.
After a night rafted with Louise and her guests (on Blue Planet) we headed off next day for a short trip to Montauk Bay. The first part
was a leisurely almost downwind sail at 3.5 to 4.5 kts (got to scrub the slime off the boat bottom) with the genoa only filling sometime.
I'm not ready for the gennaker singlehanded yet. And a good thing that day! After rounding the "ruins", and heading up about 90 deg
went up to 7.5 to 8.5 kts for the next 9 miles. Close to the destination, and out of the shelter of Gardiners Island, the wind picked up
and the boat started to feel a bit over powered. After rolling up the genoa, it was still 9 to 9.5 kts. Fortunately, now that I have the right
block for the main halyard, it is now easy to get the main down. Aim the boat into the wind, release the halyard, and let it fall. Just don't
let the line tangle. (With the original block, it twisted the halyard around itself, and it was not only very difficult to get the sail up, but you
also had to pull it down.)
"Lake" Montauk is a near perfect anchorage. It is very large and 8 ft deep all over - except the narrow, twisting channel getting in.
There is a main harbor at the entrance. Got a chance to hike and explore and check out the Atlantic ocean. It was pretty rough from
the storms down south.
Got back from town in time to see the boats disappear in the fog. No real problem though.
We had a USCG official inspection today. It was a great group of guys, some seemed like kids. I think they just wanted to check out
the new catamaran. They said the "gold sheet" they gave me after today's inspection was good for a year and to show it to the CG if
boarded again within that time. They also said that I might be "inspected" again if somebody wants to check out the catamaran.
A word of advice to any with evil intent: don't get a new Leopard catamaran. There were lots of oohs and aahs during the inspection,
and it was quite fun (except we got a late start for our hike. They were also quite happy to tell us what places to check out in town. I
hope I didn't hurt their feelings too much when I said that the best job in the world was being an astronaut - not being a coastie. (The
second best job is being an allergist.)
I also just came to the realization that I have never been better in my life. This time it isn't just a contrast from having malaria, but I
am healthier than ever. No, I'm not going to cancel my new health insurance (now that my cobra has run out).
7/27/08
Have been at anchor in Greenport, Long Island, NY for a few nights. It was a bit rocky at times until this weekend when all the big
powerboats started arriving. Even on the stable platform of a catamaran things were flying. I was planning to take my laptop into town
to access high speed internet and get the website updated, but it has been one thunderstorm after another all day. One storm had 35
knot winds, gusting to 43. Quite spectacular. A powerboat anchored behind me, just before the storms hit. That photo isn't out of
focus, it is the rain. Sure am glad I have lots of room to use lots of chain on my anchor.
LEOPARD QUALITY REPORT!
I had a bit of a shock yesterday. The boat has been getting much more sluggish recently, and I have noticed considerable slime on the
hull, but hadn't looked too closely. Yesterday was the first opportunity in almost two months to check the bottom. Instead of just slime,
I found a thick growth of barnacles over most of the hull. Talk about putting on the brakes! Sorry no photos.
I still believe that Robertson & Caine take quality control seriously and stand behind their product and service. I hope and expect that
this will be taken care of promptly by R&C as a warranty item, possibly in Newport, but it is an inconvenience.
7/28/08
Hot off the press!
I just sent them the email last night about this problem, and already got a phone call this morning to get the process started. Hopefully
it will be done right next week in Newport.
The winds from the third storm yesterday came from a different direction,and my anchor dragged about 75 ft before resetting.
Regardless, I put out all the chain (160 ft) instead of the 100 ft I had in 15 ft of water, and backed down on it to make sure it was firmly
set.
Late last night I was out checking my position, by which time it was a beautiful clear calm night. I saw a small boat approaching with a
spotlight, slowly. When they saw me they turned on the flashing blue lights and identified themselves a coastguard. As soon as I
identified my boat as Changing Spots, one of the Coasties shouted "Yo, Robert!" It was the guys with whom I had such a fun visit in
Montauk a few days ago. When I told them I had seen 43 knots of wind, they replied that at their station they saw 59.5 knots. They also
very courteously left without any wake until they were well beyond me.
8/01/2008
Good news!
I got approval to get the boat bottom done, and it is scheduled to start Monday AM.
AND, in the meantime, I just happened to get to Newport early enough to get one of the few great anchoring spots for this weekend's
Newport Folk Festival. Although the concert should be fine from the cockpit, I will probably take to dinghy close to shore to hear
Jimmy Buffet.
08/08/08
The concert and Jimmy Buffet were great. I wish I could say the same for the boaters who I had assumed were there for the concert.
Enough said, but they made it difficult to hear and enjoy some of the concert.
On Sat afternoon, it rained for over an hour, then stopped. There was a break in the music when I noticed some really weird looking
dark clouds. Although the wind was from another direction, I headed back to the boat just in time for the downpour, and within a few
more minutes the wind started howling. A raft-up of 6 powerboats dragged anchor towards a new Catana 50 catamaran. Fortunately,
there were enough people aboard that a disaster was averted. After that, a whole lot of people were playing the re-anchor shuffle, in
an already overcrowded anchorage.
Monday morning the boat was hauled and found to be a great mess of barnacles. A representative from Interlux paint company was
there taking photos and samples. It appears that somebody in South Africa didn't do their job right. The good news is that this was an
isolated problem, AND R&C are standing behind their work. Good thing too! The prices in this area are high, even by south Florida
standards. New England Boatworks, in Portsmouth, RI did a very professional job. Sorry, I didn't get any "after" photos - but the
boat sure moves better. Can't wait to get her sailing again.
I am back at anchor in Newport, but even with a Friday arrival, it is not crowded for this weekend's Jazz festival. Good thing too.
Another storm rolled through and a sailboat did a very fast anchor drag. Also a good thing that the two guys were still aboard. Of
course now that I have lost trust in my anchor (a 45# Delta with 160' of 3/8" chain), I envision dragging anchor with every storm.
Interesting though: I love the storms, and don't want to miss them. (Good thing too, especially if the anchor drags.) To me, being in
the wind, rain, thunder and lightning is being in church and good for the soul.
For piece of mind I ordered a new anchor - a Manson supreme, 60#, which is one of the new generation super anchors. Unfortunately,
it didn't arrive today as scheduled, so I need to stay here until Tuesday. However, West Marine did offer to deliver it for me.
Send me a message with your thoughts, comments or questions, or just to say HI, I love hearing from you. Now if I can just get some
high speed internet so I can get it online.
8/12/08
What a miserable night! Oh, I'm sorry, I should say "what an adventure!" I was awakened at 2:30 with a wet area on the
bed. (I guess that could have been worse.) It had started to rain, and I left the hatch over the bed open (I usually do, unless rain is
imminent). Of course, with a storm, you go on deck and check your position (and the other boats around you). This is even more
important when you don't trust your anchor. Great, the boat was near a mooring ball in the same position as when I first anchored.
The previous night I thought the boat might be dragging anchor since it seemed close to another marker. Just as I was starting to feel
better about the anchor, the mooring ball got closer, then almost hit. Rather than re-anchor (a very difficult thing to do singlehanded
with lots of wind, at night), I thought I would just tie up to the mooring ball until morning. Easy. Put on lots of line, get the engines going
and hoist anchor. When the anchor comes free, you're already attached to the buoy.
About 5 AM, I finally gave up. The anchor wasn't going anywhere, and I was tied to the mooring ball in case the anchor came free. At 7
AM it was still windy (but not bad now, about 20 kts). When I went to check the anchor, I could see it, near the surface in 30 ft of water.
It had snagged something, a large rusty cable, and if I powered up the engines (a lot), I could move the boat up or down the cable.
At noon, it was finally cleared. I thought I might need to put on snorkel gear, but eventually got the anchor up enough (when the wind
died) to put a shackle in the back of the anchor. This was attached to a line to the bow. Then by lowering the anchor chain, the 2 inch
diameter rusty iron cable fell off. Needless to say, I tried lots of other things before this worked.
There has been a lot of rain here. The locals are asking when summer will start. I have been in "church" enough that my soul should
be fine for a long time. However, I do enjoy the warm days and cool nights.
Don't need to make any windscoops here. I made rain guards out of Sunbrella fabric and attached them to the sides of the "wind
shield". They work fine at keeping most of the rain out of the cockpit. At least it is warm rain. My internet on the boat is hit-or-miss
(mostly the latter), so I usually need to take the laptop to shore to get online. Not a good idea with the intensity of the thunderstorms.
8/13/08
Interesting! After the strains and exertions of yesterday, I expected to have some aches and pains, but no!!!, and it is a beautiful day.
I had high speed internet on the boat last night, but it didn't last long enough to upload the website.
8/17/08
I now have the new anchor, and bridle, and will pick up a mooring today so I can
change my ground tackle. Old anchor, 45 # Delta on left, new 60# Manson
Supreme, on right.
I certainly wasn't expecting to be here this long. Tomorrow I will start north again. Everybody says Maine is worth the fog, and lobster
trap obstacle course. Indeed it has been said that you will snag at least one, and you need a wet suit for the cold water. My question is
that if I have to cut the line, do I get to pull up the trap and keep the lobster?
I also want to thank the Newport Yacht Club for their wonderful hospitality. It is refreshing to visit such a friendly club, and it
reminds me of my Richmond Yacht Club in California.
8/19
At anchor in Vineyard Haven, on Martha's Vineyard. Spent last night at Cuttyhunk. Both days of sailing were perfect at 7 to 9
kts in 10 to 15 kts wind and favorable current. Did the short hike to the top of Tower Hill for the view, and blackberries. We were
invited to a local talent show by the town pianist, who happens to be a sailor, but we couldn't wait until Wednesday night. Thanks for
the hospitality.
After anchoring, we did a short trip ashore in Vineyard Haven, and plan to be here for two days. The timing is good because they are
having their annual Illumination Night. Will have to wait and see what it is. We will probably miss the fireworks that happen the next
night. Tomorrow we explore.
Who is that crusty, salty looking character? The big sailing ship is the Alabama. There are many such vessels in the NE, and they are
beautiful to behold.
Then we head to Nantucket to await a favorable weather window for the offshore passage to Maine. George knows this area well,
but hasn't been to Maine. I'm looking forward to going through prime whale watching country. His wife June will probably stay home in
Nantucket.
Hopefully the ferry will come back soon so I can access their WiFi to upload this report. There are only very weak signals in the harbor,
even with the WiFi extender system, until the ferry comes in.
The Vineyard Haven harbor is very well protected on three sides - the only problem is that there is a 20 to 25 kt wind from the fourth
direction, so it is a rock and roll night. I think that when we pick up the new anchor I will kiss it a big thanks, smelly mud and all.
However, for those with Leopard 40 catamarans thinking of upgrading anchors, go with the Rocna anchor instead. The problem,
although relatively minor, is that because of the thickness of the shaft of the Manson, it doesn't fit well into the anchor rollers.
I recommend Vineyard Haven for cruisers, with the caveat that the anchorage is open to one side. There is a convenient dinghy
dock, and showers at the harbormaster office (free), as well as close walking distance to a supermarket, hardware store, West
Marine (small), fuel, bus service, and numerous restaurants. The bus service was a good way to explore Edgartown, and check out
the On-Time ferries to Chappaquiddick. We happened to be in Oak Bluffs in time for the annual Illumination Festival, with many
thousands of others. There is music and synchronized lighting of lanterns (mainly the oriental paper ones) on the fronts of all the
houses.
8/21/2008
Safely secured to George and June's mooring in Nantucket. They have kindly offered the grand tour (plus of course the sailors
delight of long showers and laundry - we are easily pleased) of this historic nautical location. On Sat AM, the passage around Cape
Cod to Maine.
I have been asked why there is no information about who is with me on parts of the journey. Believe me, with her permission, you will
know about her - once the right, long term crew is found. Also, in spite of popular demand, there are photos of me, not hamming it up
(how dull). See the bottom of the page below. And if that doesn't scare you......
8/24/08
Today we arrived at the most northern destination for my eastern US part of the journey, Rockland, ME. We left Nantucket yesterday
around 8:30 AM, and arrived here this afternoon. Except for not enough wind, the weather was perfect,with a beautiful sunrise,
sunset, and even a few whales for added spice. A ship anchored outside the harbor had an F24 as a dinghy.
We had considered stopping at a small island called Matinicus, but for reasons finalized because of an unmerciful minefield of
lobster pots, we kept on to Rockland (not to be confused with Rockport, a short distance away). We tried fishing for the first time. At
least we didn't loose anything. I don't think the seaweed we caught would have been suitable for sushi. The fishing wasn't a total bust
however, since this little guy liked the cat so much he swam onto the aft deck.
8/25
Rockland, ME
Anchored yesterday in the south part of the sheltered harbor, fixed the navigation lights which were only working intermittently on the
overnight passage. Fortunately, there were no other boats at all. Went to town and met some cruisers. One couple had spent 5 years
cruising the Med, and were happy to share their experiences with a novice cruiser. Isn't the cruising life great!?
After a huge lobster/shrimp dinner, we got back to the boat and did some work on the website. I stepped onto the cockpit and couldn't
see the light on the shore or any boats anchored nearby. This morning the fog started lifting, so I can show a taste of cruising in Maine.
8/29
At anchor in Porpoise Cove, ME
We quite enjoyed Rockland, and didn't see any more fog - only warm days and cool nights. Perfect weather, but a warning that winter
is on its way. After three nights we started a leisurely pace south, doing 25 -50 miles per day. The first day out, in spite of constant
dodging of lobster pots, we saw seals, and numerous small porpoises.
Regarding lobster pots, they are traps, not so much for lobsters, but for boats. They lure you down a line which ends in a solid mass of
traps - with no escape. The lines can snag you hull, or propeller, and cause serious damage. Plan severaqlmoves ahead,like a chess
game.
If you saw a large log floating in the water, you should call the CG and report a hazard to navigation. These traps are much more
dangerous, and are set in anchorages, and even in shipping channels. The only limitation I have seen is that they are not set where the
large ships navigate, or they would get "blenderized" in the ships propellers. I have seen them 18 miles from shore in 380 feet of
water. Some even work in pairs. Often a stealthy one will lurk just below the surface waiting to grab an unsuspecting victim. There
are so many lobster pots that I can't imagine how any lobsters survive. I am determined to be the first(?) cruiser to escape Maine
without having to clear a lobster pot line (water temperature 56 deg F).
We spent a night at Linekin Bay (right near Booth Bay for people who have sailed here), and anchored in what looked like a
mountain lake. We then joined another boat in Quohog Bay, in another postcard setting. The cockpit at night is like a religious
experience, even without the thunderstorm. Oh, did I mention that there were two days of biting black flies, which disappeared at
night? We bypassed Portland, ME, but had planned to stop there. The lobster pots make travel difficult, and even dangerous, which
is not the way cruising should be. It has been worth it to visit Maine, but this is Russian roulette that you can't win forever.
Porpoise Bay is not for cruisers and the small harbor is full of mooring balls. However, we managed to find a spot to drop the sleep
insurance anchor. There aren't set up for cruisers, but it might be a good place to get lobster (if I hadn't sworn them off!) We are only
about 3 miles from Kennebunkport, but we don't plan on doing any visiting there. Today, besides the seals and porpoises, we saw
whales, possibly Right whales. The second time they were fairly close and we could see them smiling.
Rockport, MA was a worthwhile stopover for two nights. It certainly deserves its name, on more than one account. The harbor is
surrounded by stone slabs, which make me think of the European cities. It also was one of the most rocky, bouncy anchorages, and
you couldn't even blame the powerboats. The second night we anchored on the other side of the bay (not in the harbor) to avoid wave
surge (it didn't help!). We could hear and feel the anchor dragging across the solid rock bottom three times until we tried again at a
distance.
After two nights we headed to Province Town. One spot must have been really dangerous since they had two lighthouses!
(Actually, I suspect they were used as a range.) P town was interesting in itself, even without the nautical influence. Not only was this
classic ship a site to behold, but there was a race of gaff rigged ships ending in the harbor the next morning.
After two nights we had a great sail reeling in the monohulls on the way to the
Cape Cod canal. This is another place where you need to time the tides.
9/07
A 500 mile excursion
Newport, RI
Back after a week and a half journey to my northernmost point in Maine.
George has a website with photos and some video of the journey at sailing a catamaran to Maine.
After a couple of nights at anchor, I decided to get out of this crowded anchorage to enjoy my date with Hannah (tropical storm).
Although a bit wild later on, she was fun and gentle with me. A borrowed mooring at Portsmouth, RI (thank you) worked out
perfectly.
9/20/2008
Much has happened in the last week. (No, I'm not going to tell you everything!) The Newport boat show was fun, but didn't have the
selection of things I am looking for, so almost everything will have to wait for the Annapolis show. So much to get, and so little to
spend, but it will all work out just fine.
My new crew will join me on Monday to start the journey to Annapolis. Since we are leaving so late, we will not be exploring the
Connecticut side of Long Island Sound, but will take the offshore route to Cape May, NJ, then up the Delaware bay to the
C&D canal to the Chesapeake. After a little exploring of the northern Chesapeake, it will be time to head to Annapolis, well
before the boat show to assure a good anchorage.
Newport is such a spectacular sailing city. Yesterday a fleet of 12 meter boats sailed by, a hundred yards for where I am anchored.
They all had their support boats ($200-300k each) and there was a helicopter to monitor the fleet. They had a race mark 200 yards
away, then went upwind into the main town area for the finish. What a show. Every day the gaff rigged schooners take tours out for a
sail.
9/25/2008
Offshore route plans changed.
At anchor off City island, near New York City, awaiting a gale to blow over, and a favorable tide to run through Hell Gate to the
city. Then pick up a mooring at 79th Street Boat Basin to await the end of offshore gales for the overnight offshore run to Cape May,
NJ. Today we had an exhilarating sail (with engine on) in 25 kts wind - directly downwind - to City Island.
On the way, we spent a night at Giant's Neck, then at Long Neck, CT.
After all my experiences with anchoring, I decided to start writing an article for one of the sailing magazines (Multihulls?) about the
topic. So much is done outside of what the books say is supposed to be done, and there is so much else to learn. Indeed, if you
anchored by the book, you would create havoc and destruction, and be driven out of a typical crowded anchorage.
Life is so good, and cruising just amplifies it.
11/06/08
At a dock in the town of Deep Creek, at the north end of the Great Dismal Swamp.
It has been a very active time,with lots of projects to do and things to try to get done, but I am finally trying to get an update on the
website.
The article was sent to Multihulls magazine a couple of weeks ago, but I haven't heard anything yet.
To continue the journey where we left off, the trip through Hell Gate was uneventful except for early fog, and then all the USCG boats
patrolling the backside of Manhattan on the East River. It turns out they had lots of extra security because of something going on
at the UN. We got the last mooring ball at the 79th St marina, and no wonder (see photo of the mooring line)!!! Those two tiny
remaining strands held us against the current (running the engines probably helped) until we could get another line on it. We also saw
a large pleasure boat we had seen before in Nantucket. We had two busy days walking/exploring Manhattan.
We had a great sail down the NY cityfront, past Sandy Hook, and down the New Jersey coast. Late in the afternoon we set
the fishing line, and within a half hour heard the line being dragged out. Damn, more seaweed, except this time there was a fish! We
suspected it was a blue, which is oily and fishy tasting, but we were determined to eat it anyway. After doing all we could to overpower
the taste, we cooked and ate it. In spite of being buried in onion and lemon juice it was bland (but much better than fishy). Now... how
do you cut a fillet to keep the bones out? But we had dinner just before a weird sunset, survived. This is what the sun looked like, and
is not a photo artifact.
Our goal was to get down the coast overnight and up Delaware Bay so we could get through the C&D canal with a favorable tide.
With one engine running slowly, and the sails set we realized that we would be heading up the Delaware Bay in the middle of the
night. Not a good idea, considering all the crab pots we saw on the way up in July. We had the luxury of being able to stop the engine
and just sail for several hours, and still arrived at Delaware bay in the dark.
It seemed like we would never get past the lights of Atlantic City, but had a beautiful overnight trip down the coast.
It turns out the C&D canal was closed because a ship had run aground. As we got there, the canal had opened and the current was
just changing in our favor. We anchored in a pretty and secluded spot, great anchorage in the Sassafras River in the early afternoon.
The fish were jumping and the Canada geese were very scenic. The next morning we heard explosions in the distance which we
guessed might have been from the Aberdeen proving grounds. We also fought the current all the rest of the way to Annapolis.
It was over a week until the start of the boat show, and already the whole place was filling up. We again anchored way up Spa Creek,
even closer to the end, in a very tight spot. The foxes (not that kind) were fun to watch in the morning.
We had four major items to get, but only got two - solar panels and a watermaker - and I will probably install them myself. The funds
set aside for this dried up along with the stock market, and I couldn't get good enough deals to justify removing any funds when they
are this low. I ordered the Spectra Cape Horn Extreme watermaker,and two Mitsubishi 185 W solar panels. The latter were chosen
because they will fit on a SS tube between the dinghy davits. They will be able to pivot, and will even shelter the dinghy a bit. I have
installed the SS tube, and it is a very heavy wall version, attached with stanchion mounts. I could do chin-ups on it (if I could do
chin-ups). I have ordered aluminum to fabricate a frame to strengthen the solar panels and plan to work on this in Wilmington, NC
when we are there (I think I will need to have good access to marine electrical parts). I guess I'll be going to the Miami show in Feb to
finish my shopping, as long as the stock market smartens up by then.
The boat show was good, and we went every day (as volunteers for Womanship). We helping get Louise's boat (Blue Planet) in, out and
prepped for her demonstration at the show. My sewing machine got put to work on her boat, and by coincidence we were right by the
Sailrite booth. I also got my cockpit cushions started! After almost two weeks there it was time to head south again since it was
getting chilly.
On Oct 14 we headed to Solomons again. I like it there. We stayed at the Solomons Harbor marina again, this time for two weeks. It
was the first time at a marina since leaving there in June. Say hello to John if you go there, he is very helpful, and makes the place so
friendly. Aahhh, the luxury of lots of water and electricity. I even spent three nights off the boat (now a total of 5 nights since moving
aboard in Feb) to visit my daughter who had a concert in Kentucky.
So many projects are easier at a dock, and with shore power, that the cockpit cushions are all done, even backs. If the solar panels
had arrived on schedule, I would have had them installed. It was nice having easy access to get needed parts, and fortunately,the solar
panels finally arrived.
We had a great sail down to Tangier Island, in the middle of Chesapeake Bay. It was one of those places that I had to visit again.
The dialect is so quaint, and the golf cart tour of the island was such a kick. The next day we headed for Hampton, VA, but only got
as far as Back River. It was weird, being so large but with such shallow water outside of the channels. The ship aground was a
sorry sight, but was more than made up for the next morning when a large pod of dolphins started playing around us. Even better was
their swimming in our bow wave!!!
Hampton was great. We thought about spending a day, possibly two and stayed four nights. We had a good visit with people who
were preparing for the Carib 1500 regatta. It was delayed several days because of an Atlantic storm. The Mariners museum in
Newport News was well worth the visit, even the bus rides to get there. Plan on a whole long day. We also did a very pretty 5 mile
hike around the park. And no, they weren't celebrating our arrival, but a football game. They did a freefall with pink smoke before
opening the chutes. Also arrived back at the boat one day to find the Shards' new boat tied up next to us. Their DVDs (Distant Shores)
about cruising the Med have been an inspiration to me for years.
